East of the castle on the north side of the hill, wade through bracken to the boulder. There is a permanent coating of chalk on the holds since it's so sheltered, can probably be climbed ing the pouring rain!
A confined horizontal sit start on a crimp and a sloper, up to a unique sloper/thumb stack in a narrow crack. Then to a spikey but reasonable sloper and another terrible sloper at the base of a sort of corner. Pull through to a good crimp, then climb out of the corner and over the lip of the boulder.
Grade wise V5/V6 to V8 has been suggested possibly dependent upon height?
A confined horizontal sit start on a crimp and a sloper, up to a unique sloper/thumb stack in a narrow crack. Then to a spikey but reasonable sloper and another terrible sloper at the base of a sort of corner. Pull through to a good crimp, then climb out of the corner and over the lip of the boulder.
Grade wise V5/V6 to V8 has been suggested possibly dependent upon height?
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Route of Interest
Bloodlust
Grade: V6 ***
(Clodgy Point)