Utter Anarchy*** E6 6c
More exceptional climbing, doing battle with the smooth face to the right of Oranges and Lemons. Take plenty of microwires. 1) 6c, 30m. Climb a short crack, then move slightly left to pass a roof; gain the break, dive rightwards into a groove, and climb it to an obvious projecting hold. Stand on this, and climb up to another break, then move right and ascend a thin crack to gain the stance. 2) 6b, 10m. As for Oranges and Lemons. © ROCKFAX
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soph - 2nd - Aug/10 with Dan McManus

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