UKC

Restricted Access

This granite quarry was developed in the 1960ies, but due to loose rock was ignored until recently. The quarry is nicely seperated into three bays, a large eastern bay, a small central bay and a large western bay. A number of new boulder problems have been discovered in the right hand bay, while a small number of new sports routes have been developed in all three bays.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction may be lifted or modified later in the season following site visits by RSPB. The quarry is in three distinct bays, and the birds (two seperate protected species) tend to vary their exact nest sites each year. Outside of the restricted times climbers are asked to be aware that if their presence disturbs the birds (screeching sounds, and obviously agitated birds) then they should not linger beneath the nest area. Both of the left hand bays are normally restrcicted but the right hand bay, that contains the newer sports routes and the bouldering is not covered by this restriction.

 

10m. pass by the main walls of the quarry to get to the smaller box quarry further west with the old quarry winch still partially remaining : there are 4 bolted lines here one of which is still a project. The first route is on the left behind a tree and finishes at a chain lower off. The crux involves the tricky start after which bigger holds lead the way up the right facing groove

terry taylor 04/Jun/2010.

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Route of Interest
Zut Alors

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Australia)

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