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|Derbyshire > New Mills Torrs >|
|Ultimatum|| E3 6a|
<< The Arete
Mather Crack >>
|22m. Straight up the centre of the wall (right of The Arete and left of Mather Crack) over the overhang to a rusty peg , continue to a ledge then another peg then go straight up the centre of the wall to another peg(new) finnish up a thin crack to the top|
Paul Rhodes 17/Sep/2010
This climb is in 8 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
Thought this was the arÍte e35b. Tried on sighting but down climbed after peg just before crux. Top roped and fell off the 6a move.
MichaelGallimore - TR dog - 02/Feb/14 with Andrew Erskine
sputnik - TR rpt - 05/Apr/13
sputnik - TR rpt - 17/Nov/12
sputnik - TR rpt - 19/Oct/12
sputnik - TR RP - 18/Oct/12 with Mrs Z
sputnik - TR rpt - 18/Oct/12 with Mrs Z
Hidden - 2011
Having no guidebook, I got on this line on lead as I thought it looked good. A local climber, Mitch, pointed out to me after I faltered at the reachy crux move that it was actually an unclimbed project of his - but that he had given it to his mate. In the end he generously suggested I just go for it - and after lowering off and pulling my rope, I did - bagging it clean second shot (felt like low end E4 6a to me)
Mitch's mate - (via txt) then says that he did it the Thursday before (though the claimed FA date by him on UKC is the following day). He then goes on to say I should claim it... (despite himself already having posted in on UKC). Odd I thought. Why post an FA on UKC, and then when the route sees its first repeat, announce that that ascentionist should claim it!
Note that the write up is incorrect: the climb is RIGHT of the Arete and LEFT of Mather Crack.
Climbed with three micro cams pre placed in the breaks around the VERY rusted peg.
It was probably climbed in the 70s anyway!
highlux - Lead RP - 19/Sep/10