100m, 3 pitches.
This is a fun warm-up for the other, longer routes on the East Wall. The first pitch has the best climbing and is the crux. The second pitch starts with a bolder problem followed by low grade crack and face climbing on poorer quality rock. It is possible to walk off left after the first pitch and descend down 3rd class.
1) climb the crack corner until you reach an obvious roof bulge. This is the crux and can be tricky to work out. Continue up the crack with good hand jams all the way to a large and obvious ledge. Belay from here using slung boulders.
2) The first move off the ledge appears intimidating however there are plenty of good hand and foot holds. there is a single bolt after the initial boulder move. Continue up cracks and flakes until you run out of rope. Belay from anywhere (there is a bolted anchor on this pitch but it's not necessarily helpful.
3) Loose and a little dirty, this pitch is simply a means to the top.
1) climb the crack corner until you reach an obvious roof bulge. This is the crux and can be tricky to work out. Continue up the crack with good hand jams all the way to a large and obvious ledge. Belay from here using slung boulders.
2) The first move off the ledge appears intimidating however there are plenty of good hand and foot holds. there is a single bolt after the initial boulder move. Continue up cracks and flakes until you run out of rope. Belay from anywhere (there is a bolted anchor on this pitch but it's not necessarily helpful.
3) Loose and a little dirty, this pitch is simply a means to the top.
T M Herbet & Gordon Webster 1966.
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Route of Interest
Gingerbread
Grade: 5.7 ***
(Phantom Spires)