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Zarke** HVS 5a

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[Young Danny on Terra Cotta 2002, Anglezarke Quarry (Lancashire), 2 kb]20m. Somewhat bizarre and devious in line, but good, satisfying climbing never-the-less. Mantelshelf onto a narrow ledge then trend left, passing the overlap almost to the corner before heading up to another ledge. Swing back right to access the notch at the top of the wall and finish through this with care. © ROCKFAX
FA. Les Ainsworth (1 point) 1973. FFA. Ian Lonsdale 1975

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

Photo: Young Danny on Terra Cotta 2002, Anglezarke Quarry (Lancashire) © Dave Westby
View all 31 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 90 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/14

should be called "mantelshelf, mantelshelf, mantelshelf"
petegunn - Lead - 19/Aug/14 with Davina

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/May/14

bwestwood - Lead - 16/May/14

Robin Nichols - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/14 with Roger

HVS 5A is a joke, there's a full on, 5b crux with no gear.
Roget - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/14 with robin

Amazing route. The first move is not a mantle, but there are 3 fine mantle moves higher up. The first part is surely 5b?
crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/13 with James L

clean 2nd go
Kirill - Lead RP - 12/Oct/13 with Charles Moreton

After attempting to mantleshelf the first hard move as unhelpfully suggested in the guidebook, I ended up dangling on the rope. I then tried what Kirill ended up doing (using a hold below the undercut with the right hand and making a long reach with the left) and it worked first time.
cem - 2nd dog - 12/Oct/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Twisty - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/13

Fragmod - Lead - 07/Jul/13

Diggler - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/13 with Calder

Calder - 2nd - 26/Jun/13 with Mark

Hidden - Solo rpt - 19/Jun/13

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13 with April Derbyshire

Trobbo - Lead - 22/May/13 with tony hulme

Mark Collins - Lead dnf - 07/May/13 with Derek Robinson

erictant - 2nd - 20/Apr/13 with Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

dave mann - Lead O/S - 2013

deklan - Solo - 28/Aug/12

Fell off the traverse 3 times trying to get onto ledge. Did it differently 4th go, went higher first, then left.
bigglesbutcha - Lead dog - 03/May/12 with Ade

Matt Harle - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd - 2012

g1m147 - Lead - 25/Sep/11 with Mick.

rockjedi - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/11 with Sara Williams

kjbix - Lead - 31/Jul/11 with Dam Armer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11

JYates - Lead β - 24/May/11 with Paul Coxon

Hidden - 2nd - 04/May/11

Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - May/11 with Andrea

nadeem - 2nd - 23/Jan/11 with James Morrison

nepsoi999 - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/11 with nadeem

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2011

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Dave Sargent

steven - Lead dnf - 09/Oct/10 with KenTebay

clive-greenwood - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Mike Nuttall

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10

Think I've done it before
MikeLeeds - Lead rpt - 29/Aug/10 with Kevin Bowser

Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/10

hellboundblr - Lead - 18/Aug/10 with Ali Athroll

We both had a crack at the lead and got sandbagged at the mantle move. Ken finally found a way through on his 3rd go. I managed to second by placing a very high foot and pulling through the slopers. Not a 5a move! Super climb though.
climbinmunkey - 2nd dog - 14/Aug/10 with Ken

hellboundblr - 2nd - 14/Aug/10 with Andrew Eustace

andeeeee - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Bryan Lewis

Hidden - 17/Jun/10

A Crook - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10 with Dom Stockton

efrance24234 - 2010

Hard move after the traverse under the overlap (fell off lots). Cruised by Al.
embob - 2nd dog - 07/Jun/09 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/09

Lunar25 - Lead O/S - 2009

innesmac - 2009

TonyP - TR - 23/Jul/08 with woody

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/08

dicky79 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Nicola

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/08

Trobbo - Lead - 21/May/08 with mike parkinson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/07

PenJD - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/07 with Duncan Martin

psychicbread - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/07 with Max and Paul

cem - Lead dnf - 03/Dec/06 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - TR rpt - 01/Jul/06

karabiner - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/06 with Andy

Cant really remember it must do it again. 20m
robman - 2nd O/S - 09/Feb/06 with Tim

Darryl M - Lead O/S - 2006 with Neil Constantine

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2006 with dave

Marvino - Lead - Aug/05 with Jason and Gemma

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/05

Trobbo - 2nd - 11/Apr/04 with mark humphries

Trobbo - Lead β - 21/Jul/03 with stuart cochran

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/03 with Terry Robinson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Hammy - TR - 10/May/01

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 2nd - 08/May/93

ChrisJD - Lead - 22/Jun/92 with PhilH

badgy - 1991

mattnuttall - Lead - 24/Aug/90 with Alan Holden

NickJH - Lead - Aug/90

whispering nic - Jun/90 with noj

John Southworth - Lead O/S - Mar/90

Hidden - Lead - 24/Mar/89

ChrisJD - 2nd - 08/Mar/89 with PaulB

andy farnell - 1989

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 09/Sep/87

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/82

Mark Kemball - Lead - 11/Aug/82 with John Fletcher

Hidden - Lead - 25/May/82

Mark Kemball - Solo - 12/Apr/80

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jonniep, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, ben84, jmarshall, slingerp, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 70
hard E10 of 25
E12 of 25
easy E12 of 25
hard HVS14 of 25
HVS6 of 25
easy HVS0 of 25
hard VS1 of 25
VS0 of 25
easy VS0 of 25
hard 5b1 of 24
5b2 of 24
easy 5b9 of 24
hard 5a9 of 24
5a2 of 24
easy 5a1 of 24
hard 4c0 of 24
4c0 of 24
easy 4c0 of 24
3 Stars3 of 21
2 Stars15 of 21
1 Star3 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent

Soloed4 of 90 (4.4%)
Lead55 of 90 (61.1%)
Followed21 of 90 (23.3%)
Toproped3 of 90 (3.3%)
Unknown7 of 90 (7.8%)

'Climbed'37 of 90 (41.1%)
clean O/S38 of 90 (42.2%)
clean β2 of 90 (2.2%)
clean rpt4 of 90 (4.4%)
clean RP1 of 90 (1.1%)
dogged5 of 90 (5.6%)
dnf3 of 90 (3.3%)