Lancashire > Anglezarke Quarry >
 
First Finale*** E1 5b

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[fedster (first finale)anglezarke, 2 kb]18m. Well-protected climbing on pleasing holds, and understandably popular. Climb the crack first, passing an overlap early on, to a finish up the final groove (a bit loose) at the left edge of the roof. Low in the grade. © ROCKFAX
FA. Colin Dickinson 1972. FFA. Dave Knighton 1976

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: fedster (first finale)anglezarke © fedster187
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 289 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

The missing peg and the greasy conditions made it harder than I've found it for a very long time.
Leofallon - Lead rpt - 14/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14

AndyPratt88 - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/14 with Jim

Steady Away
Climbster - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Leo

Hidden - Lead RP - 31/May/14

Seconded with Matt
Leo Woodhead - 2nd rpt - 31/May/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/May/14

Robin Nichols - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/14 with Roger

Roget - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/14 with robin

BigTone - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/14 with Jamie Paluch

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/14

miles01 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with nick day

jshields - Lead - 13/Apr/14 with Dave Sargent

davewsargent - 2nd - 13/Apr/14 with mike dowsett, jon shields

bshenderson - Lead - 27/Mar/14

Seemed easy for E1 but I'll take the grade :-)
AndyPratt88 - 2nd - 26/Mar/14 with Jim

adie84 - 2014

Described as well-protected, but a lot of the gear is behind quite loose-feeling blocks and there's not actually that much of it available. The climbing is mostly easy with only one short slightly harder section but I got quite pumped on it. E1 5a?
crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/13 with James L

Kirill - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/13 with Charles Moreton

cem - 2nd rpt - 12/Oct/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

manxclare - Lead - 06/Oct/13 with jon22

jon22 - 2nd - 06/Oct/13 with manxclare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13

Dave Heaton - Lead - 05/Sep/13

petekeron - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/13 with Barry Scott

Coel Hellier - Lead - 11/Aug/13

Twisty - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13

Hidden - TR O/S - 08/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/13

noah - Lead dnf - 22/Jul/13 with P Swire

bgreen3761 - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/13

Jacob Forshaw - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/13

Fragmod - Lead - 07/Jul/13

erictant - Lead rpt - 06/Jul/13 with JYates

A doddle. Must be the UK's softest E1. Felt about VS. But then we had just come from the golden tower...
Longsufferingropeholder - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13

Diggler - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/13 with Calder

Calder - 2nd - 26/Jun/13 with Mark

erictant - TR O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Paul

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13 with April Derbyshire

Amazoniangirl - TR - 31/May/13 with Carl Stubbs

Hidden - Lead - 25/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 24/May/13

Matt Rowat - Lead O/S - 24/May/13 with Ross

Trobbo - 2nd - 22/May/13 with tony hulme

Dan Crook - 2nd - 05/May/13

Rachel Somerville - Lead O/S - 01/May/13 with Paul Rigby

Very soft for E1.
Tubs - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13 with Dave M

dave mann - Lead rpt - 2013

Hidden - 23/Sep/12

At last, something to take from this week. I tried top-roping this last year but was unable to complete without a rest. I've done the route a number of times in the past, but that doesn't count for much now. Also, the peg is no longer present. I suspect it came out with the recent fall, speedy and full recovery to whoever it was.
Mark Collins - TR rpt - 05/Sep/12 with Delboy

Derek Robinson - TR dnf - 05/Sep/12 with Mark Collins

Mr Wild - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with John McGuinness

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/12

Pretty good. wobbly block didn't help. shame about the top out.
Mattyk - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/12 with Andy Hobson

Hidden - 18/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/12

Ade's first E1, well done
bigglesbutcha - 2nd O/S - 03/May/12 with Ade

khawk - Lead rpt - 31/Mar/12 with DT

Clay C - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Ken

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Mar/12

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 25/Mar/12 with Alan

PeteH - Lead rpt - 20/Mar/12 with Chris Moxon

area above peg is looser than last year... take care
efrance24234 - Lead rpt - 08/Mar/12

jac.c123 - 2nd rpt - 07/Jan/12 with andyc123

climbing son - Lead RP - Jan/12

Hidden - 2nd - 2012

Leo Woodhead - Lead O/S - 2012

cat22 - 2nd O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Mike

georgenvk - TR O/S - 12/Nov/11 with martina

now even more convinced this is seriously very soft for E1 and probably easier than Terror Cotta.
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 16/Oct/11 with Pete Wimbush

Excellent, best route of the day?
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Cleo

Clee - 2nd - 15/Oct/11 with Graeme

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

hamishjfk - 2nd - 20/Sep/11

rockjedi - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/11 with Sara Williams

Mark Collins - TR dog - 02/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11

jac.c123 - 2nd rpt - 20/Jul/11 with andyc123

HansUDes - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/11 with Pete

csw - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/11

gw3285 - 2nd - 29/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11

pbphil169 - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/11

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Anna

jac.c123 - 2nd rpt - 28/May/11 with andyc123

Hidden - Lead - 04/May/11

chrisg - 2nd - 03/May/11

Just Another Dave - 2nd O/S - May/11 with Andrea

First E1!
JYates - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11 with Stephen Kearney

Neil R - Lead - 24/Apr/11 with cliff shasby

bexyboo - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Kev

nickhoward - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Kev

Great climb, more like HVS 5a.
Simon Holden (LCandCC) - Lead rpt - 14/Apr/11 with Swifty

First E1 lead but very dissapointed - too easy for grade
wrapped in bacon - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/11 with Rob

Easier than Terror Cotta!
Bob - 2nd O/S - 03/Apr/11 with M. Bullough

petegunn - Lead - 01/Apr/11 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/11

jac.c123 - 2nd - 18/Feb/11 with andyc123

damp...
nadeem - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/11 with James Morrison

joe.91 - 2nd O/S - 31/Oct/10 with Jack Metcalfe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/10

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Dave Sargent

jtree03 - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Brother Al

Very easy for E1, felt more like hard HVS. Never the E2 5b it gets in Lancs Rock!!!
Hardonicus - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Chris Surfleet

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Anna

MikeLeeds - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Kevin Bowser

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/10

sparkass - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Tom Airnes

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10 with J. Iles-Smith

jiles - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/10 with Alex Winter

1 rest.
hellboundblr - Lead dog - 14/Aug/10 with Andrew Eustace

andeeeee - 2nd β - 14/Aug/10 with Bryan Lewis

wouldn't like to lead with those loose holds higher up.
Bumblebee Biggs - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/10

Simon Rackley - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with tracy baldwin

Shuttsie - 2nd - 11/Jul/10 with Andrea Sales

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jul/10

really great climbing, good holds, good gear, really enjoyable
skittles - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/10 with will johnson

mick grim - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/10

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Anna

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10

I can't believe anyone thinks this is E1, let alone E2.
Shauna - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Jules

JulesV - 2nd - 19/Jun/10 with Shauna Cunningham

Calder - Lead dog - 18/Jun/10 with jeffb

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/10

NeilGriffiths - 2nd - 18/May/10 with Adam

A Crook - Lead O/S - 18/May/10 with Neil Griffiths

Great route, down as E1 in my book. Rested once just before getting over the lip.
natalie28 - 2nd - 12/May/10 with Rik, Uni Group

mickJ - 2nd - 08/May/10 with Nick and Mike

chrisboywonder - Lead O/S - 01/May/10 with Mike Harper

chrisboywonder - 2nd rpt - 01/May/10 with Mike Harper

mike_harper - Lead β - 01/May/10

rikbattye - Lead O/S - May/10 with natalie28

Hidden - Lead β - May/10

NeilGriffiths - 27/Apr/10 with Dave, Adrian Pedley

Hidden - TR rpt - 15/Apr/10

lewk_c - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/10 with Rik Dawes

nickhoward - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/10 with kevin wheatley

lancashirelass - 2nd - 11/Apr/10 with kjbix

Rik Dawes - Lead O/S - Apr/10

efrance24234 - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

bexyboo - Lead RP - 2010 with John

bexyboo - Lead RP - 2010 with John

PeteH - 2nd O/S - 11/Dec/09 with Noel Peatfield

ndp - Lead - 11/Dec/09

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 08/Nov/09

Ant Man Bee - 2nd - 25/Oct/09 with Johan Piper

Tadams - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/09 with Jonny Schofield

metal arms - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/09

khawk - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/09 with DT

Brown - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/09 with John

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/09

tmawer - Lead - Jul/09 with Andy

adam06 - 2nd - 19/Jun/09 with chris white and chris carr

wilkie14c - Lead RP - 15/Jun/09 with Mark Wilson

Thought it was an E1 when attempted... great feeling. Sling the tree at the top (gently) before escaping- otherwise quite a big fall possible.
AshWall - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/09 with Norman Wilkinson

conboy93 - Lead O/S - 26/May/09 with Matthew Lovell, Peter Brindle

Hidden - TR - 23/Apr/09

kjbix - Lead - 05/Apr/09 with Selma Williams

hetaher - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Dave H

garethtodd - TR O/S - 22/Mar/09

garethtodd - TR O/S - 22/Mar/09

Lunar25 - Lead O/S - 2009

steven - Lead β - 18/Sep/08 with Brian Hull

ruggystunts - 2nd - 14/Sep/08 with Kev

Good flowing moves, bit loose at top and easy for E1!
derico - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/08 with Dave Hollows

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 30/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/08

will6459 - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/08 with Andy Hext

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Aug/08

mickJ - 2nd - 23/Aug/08 with mike b

dhdaveuk - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Leo

TonyP - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/08 with woody

Although top roped still suited with climb
Booey - TR dog - 13/Jul/08

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/08

dicky79 - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08 with Nicola

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08

good climb, E1 providing you find the nice holds
dannut89 - TR O/S - Jun/08

Very steady ascent. Just getting back into the grade. Really nice climb though!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 26/May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/08

CasWebb - 2nd O/S - 21/May/08 with Dave Westby

Positive holds.
slarty - 2nd - 15/May/08 with Liam

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 02/May/08

tomB - 2nd rpt - 24/Apr/08 with Ross Pimlott

Timothy Greenhalgh - Lead dog - 16/Mar/08 with Andy B

samking251 - 2008

galpinos - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/07 with Nick V and Emily

3*, brilliant climbing. Technical and crimpy for the most part then a right bitch of a top-out! E1 in Western Grit and pretty amenable at that grade.
climbingpixie - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07 with James

DavidR - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Holly Adamthwaite

kitkat78 - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/07 with SteveM

SteveM - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Kat

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 15/Sep/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/07

Hidden - TR O/S - 08/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Sep/07

Rich Kirby - 2nd O/S - 06/Sep/07 with Hugh

psychicbread - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/07 with Max

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/07

A tough one to warm up on
Swotson - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/07 with Matt Gordon

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/07

Duncan Skelton - Lead β - 02/Aug/07 with Mark Donohoe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/07

dhdaveuk - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/07 with Leo

tomB - Lead rpt - 26/Jun/07 with Ross Pimlott

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2007

I've climbed harder E1s
kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2007 with SteveOc

Shad - Lead - 2007

cem - Lead O/S - 03/Dec/06 with Graham Dolman

Found this a bit strenuous for E2 but good fun all the same.
Will Hunt - TR O/S - 06/Aug/06 with Jamie and Phil

Jamie Light - TR - 06/Aug/06 with Phil Baker/Will Hunt

Hidden - TR O/S - 14/Jul/06

Stig - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/06 with Maciek

Hidden - Lead β - 31/May/06

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 31/May/06

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/06

soft touch dont know why it is e2
robman - Lead O/S - 10/May/06 with Tim

tomB - 2nd - 10/May/06 with Rob Boyle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/06

Carl Smethurst - Lead rpt - 02/May/06 with Gareth Mayhead

karabiner - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/06 with chris m fisher

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/06

Hidden - 2nd β - 26/Apr/06

kitch01 - TR O/S - Apr/06 with terry webb

Dom Whillans - 2006 with a.crook

Kyuzo - Lead O/S - 2006 with Leo Warren

Johann - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/05

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - May/05

Easy even for E1. Should be HVS 5A
Dave Westby - Lead O/S - 2005 with John Fishwick

my first E1 :) when i was stronger!
highclimber - Lead O/S - 2005

Carl Smethurst - Lead rpt - 05/Oct/04 with Gareth Mayhead

r0b - Lead β - 15/Jun/04 with Mark Humphries

datoon - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/04 with RT

Trobbo - 2nd - 11/Apr/04 with mark humphries

Mark Collins - Lead β - 08/Jun/03 with Andy Timms, Andrew Primrose

nige - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/03 with steve tonks

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/03 with Terry Robinson

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/03

Mark Collins - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/03 with Neil Henson

Neil Henson - 2nd β - 02/Mar/03 with Mark Collins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - 2nd dog - Sep/02

Trobbo - 2nd - 09/May/02 with martin dale

Good ascent. Felt good throughout.
Owdham - TR rpt - Oct/01 with Girtch

Good climb with some good solid holds. Quite pumpy. A little tricky at the finish.
Owdham - TR O/S - 15/May/01 with Girtch

NeilGriffiths - 09/Apr/00 with Mike Pritchard

alpinismo.uk - Lead - 2000

phardman - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/97

Steve Clark - 2nd O/S - 1997

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jun/96

Steve Clark - TR - 09/May/96

Neil Conway - TR O/S - 1996

Roget - 2nd O/S - 29/May/95 with jon

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1995

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/94 with Mick Robinson, Matt Podd

Hidden - TR O/S - 05/Aug/93

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jul/93

mattnuttall - 2nd rpt - 21/Jun/93 with Scott Abraham, Alan Holden

Hidden - 1993

ChrisJD - Lead - 07/Jun/92 with PaulB

feels exposed for a vertical wall
ellie macpherson - 2nd - Jun/92 with Neil Macpherson, Graeme Jarvis

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jul/91

mattnuttall - 2nd - 24/Mar/91 with Alan Holden

Easy for E2
badgy - Lead - 1991

mattnuttall - 2nd - 24/Aug/90 with Alan Holden

whispering nic - Jun/90 with noj

John Southworth - Lead O/S - Mar/90

Hidden - Lead - 10/Apr/89

BigHairyIan - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/89 with Mike Buckley (Little Mike)

andy farnell - 1989

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1989 with gary deane

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/87 with Rob Scott

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 28/Mar/81 with John Jefferies

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Senna, ben.phillips, jonniep, Owen W-G, Hidden, ladymuck, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Hidden, Ralfy, gd303uk, jak.kelly, Hidden, Hidden, ben84

Voting
Total votes cast 207
hard E20 of 38
E20 of 38
easy E21 of 38
hard E10 of 38
E112 of 38
easy E113 of 38
hard HVS9 of 38
HVS2 of 38
easy HVS1 of 38
hard 5c0 of 89
5c0 of 89
easy 5c1 of 89
hard 5b0 of 89
5b22 of 89
easy 5b53 of 89
hard 5a11 of 89
5a1 of 89
easy 5a1 of 89
3 Stars30 of 80
2 Stars43 of 80
1 Star7 of 80
0 Stars0 of 80
Bag of .....0 of 80
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Style of ascent

Lead159 of 289 (55.0%)
Followed95 of 289 (32.9%)
Toproped23 of 289 (8.0%)
Unknown12 of 289 (4.2%)

'Climbed'82 of 289 (28.4%)
clean O/S150 of 289 (51.9%)
clean β10 of 289 (3.5%)
clean rpt30 of 289 (10.4%)
clean RP5 of 289 (1.7%)
dogged8 of 289 (2.8%)
dnf4 of 289 (1.4%)