16m.

Rockfax Description
16m. The hanging groove in the right side of The Golden Tower is a sod to enter and leads awkwardly to the ledge. The upper arete is easier but bold. Finish on the right-hand side. © Rockfax

FFA. Dave Hollows 1969 Ian Lonsdale (2nd pitch as described) 1977


ClimberDateStyle
Lenny 05/Nov Lead dog

Nice bit of udging that goes on for a good few moves than i would have liked.

with Matthew
Dr Toph 08/Oct Solo O/S

Bloody awkward dirty offwidth, followed by scary arete. Harder than Golden Tower IMHO. Solid E2

ChrisNaylor 28/Dec/15 Lead O/S
samrad 01/Nov/15 2nd

really great route. Quite hard for E2 never mind HVS. Not really an off width at the bottom. just really awkward.

with mike
MichaelGallimore 01/Nov/15 2nd
with samrad
efrance24234 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Offwidth is easy, getting out of it is not!

with Jacob
mb_manchester 22/Jul/15 2nd

Led The Golden Tower first and then seconded Fool's Gold. I have found this climb a lot harder from both mental and physical-point-of-view. The first section isn't forgiving and you'll need a lot stamina to get through it (unless you love off-widths in which case you might love it). I have climbed the second section, top bit on the facing wall (not right as suggested) which was a classic V3 boulder move but a lot more exposed. Definitely the way to finish the route though. HVS 5b? I don't think so! E2 5c (comparing with The Golden Tower)? Possibly. 3 stars? definitelly!

MischaHY 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Incredibly sandbagged! Our old lancashire rock guide had this down as HVS/5a. A very cool and bold route.

khawk 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with DT
Hidden 21/Oct/12 TR RP
ozzie35 25/Jul/12 TR dog

Awesome route easy start pumpy finish with little push..

Hidden 27/Jun/11 Lead
bigglesbutcha 14/Apr/11 2nd dog

Very tough. Took about 4 falls. We didn't read guide book properly, and finished on the 2nd pitch of Golden Tower 5c,and this felt easier than the 5b groove at the bottom.

with Will
will9911 ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with tim
philw ??/2010 -
PeteH 11/Dec/09 Lead O/S

Bloody hell! Admittedly climbed in suboptimal conditions (bottom half slightly damp - including crucial initial slopers), but felt a good bit harder than Double Trip E2 5c across the other side. Fantastic diversity of styles though - bouldery start into horrendous udgy offwidth (arm bars, one-armed mantels and other ridiculousness), then a delicate slab and reachy finish.

Hidden 05/Jul/09 Lead dog
garethtodd ?/Jun/09 TR
Lunar25 ??/2009 TR O/S
with Stacy Oliver
Hidden 14/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 08/Sep/07 TR O/S
scouser666 08/Sep/07 TR dog

very nice hard work but fun near the top was very hard but i think that was because of all the hard work i made it cause of grips and figuring out were to put my feet but was a fun challange

dhdaveuk ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Leo
jonnyboy 15/Mar/06 Lead dog

Akward, horrible, and bruttal, the bold upper section is worth the battle lower down, upthere, airy moves without much gear but didnt feel to desperate

robman 15/Mar/06 2nd dog

horrid start, middle got better and the top had some nice moves.

gonggashan ?/Jun/03 2nd dog
with Dave
Mark Collins 10/May/03 Lead dog
John Marsland 28/May/00 Lead dog
with Mark Tolver
Roget 29/May/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
Andy Say 13/Jul/93 Lead O/S
ellie macpherson ?/Oct/91 2nd

A real grit tussle getting through the off width!

with Simon Hargreaves, Neil Macpherson, Graeme Jarvis
whispering nic ?/Jun/90 -
with noj
andy farnell ??/1990 -
badgy ??/1990 -

Hard to Start

Martin Bennett 13/Jun/86 TR
Andy Nicholson ?/Apr/78 Lead O/S
with Steve Brodie
Paul Clarke ??/1978 AltLd
with FMC
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 3
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set