Fool's Gold* HVS 5b
16m.

Rockfax Description
16m. The hanging groove in the right side of The Golden Tower is a sod to enter and leads awkwardly to the ledge. The upper arete is easier but bold. Finish on the right-hand side. © ROCKFAX


FFA. Dave Hollows 1969 Ian Lonsdale (2nd pitch as described) 1977
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 33 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Offwidth is easy, getting out of it is not!
efrance24234 - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/15 with Jacob

Led The Golden Tower first and then seconded Fool's Gold. I have found this climb a lot harder from both mental and physical-point-of-view. The first section isn't forgiving and you'll need a lot stamina to get through it (unless you love off-widths in which case you might love it). I have climbed the second section, top bit on the facing wall (not right as suggested) which was a classic V3 boulder move but a lot more exposed. Definitely the way to finish the route though. HVS 5b? I don't think so! E2 5c (comparing with The Golden Tower)? Possibly. 3 stars? definitelly!
mb_london - 2nd - 22/Jul/15

Incredibly sandbagged! Our old lancashire rock guide had this down as HVS/5a. A very cool and bold route.
MischaHY - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/13

khawk - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/13 with DT

Hidden - TR RP - 21/Oct/12

Awesome route easy start pumpy finish with little push..
ozzie35 - TR dog - 25/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jun/11

Very tough. Took about 4 falls. We didn't read guide book properly, and finished on the 2nd pitch of Golden Tower 5c,and this felt easier than the 5b groove at the bottom.
bigglesbutcha - 2nd dog - 14/Apr/11 with Will

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/11

philw - 2010

Bloody hell! Admittedly climbed in suboptimal conditions (bottom half slightly damp - including crucial initial slopers), but felt a good bit harder than Double Trip E2 5c across the other side. Fantastic diversity of styles though - bouldery start into horrendous udgy offwidth (arm bars, one-armed mantels and other ridiculousness), then a delicate slab and reachy finish.
PeteH - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/09 with Noel Peatfield

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/Jul/09

garethtodd - TR - Jun/09

Lunar25 - TR O/S - 2009 with Stacy Oliver

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/08

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - TR O/S - 08/Sep/07

very nice hard work but fun near the top was very hard but i think that was because of all the hard work i made it cause of grips and figuring out were to put my feet but was a fun challange
scouser666 - TR dog - 08/Sep/07

dhdaveuk - Lead - Apr/07 with Leo

Akward, horrible, and bruttal, the bold upper section is worth the battle lower down, upthere, airy moves without much gear but didnt feel to desperate
jonnyboy - Lead dog - 15/Mar/06 with Rob Boyle

horrid start, middle got better and the top had some nice moves.
robman - 2nd dog - 15/Mar/06 with John mason

Mark Collins - Lead dog - 10/May/03

John Marsland - Lead dog - 28/May/00 with Mark Tolver

Roget - Lead O/S - 29/May/95 with jon

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1995

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/93

A real grit tussle getting through the off width!
ellie macpherson - 2nd - Oct/91 with Simon Hargreaves, Neil Macpherson, Graeme Jarvis

whispering nic - Jun/90 with noj

andy farnell - 1990

Hard to Start
badgy - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 1978

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Gaz22, Ralfy, ben84, dannut89

Voting
Total votes cast 15
hard E12 of 2
E10 of 2
easy E10 of 2
hard HVS0 of 2
HVS0 of 2
easy HVS0 of 2
hard VS0 of 2
VS0 of 2
easy VS0 of 2
hard 5c0 of 2
5c0 of 2
easy 5c1 of 2
hard 5b1 of 2
5b0 of 2
easy 5b0 of 2
hard 5a0 of 2
5a0 of 2
easy 5a0 of 2
3 Stars1 of 11
2 Stars6 of 11
1 Star4 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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