UKC

Takes the open groove at the right hand side of the Ibexland buttress.
Pitch 1 and 2 as per Ibexland, but continue pitch 2 along the ledge to its right hand end to belay on two trees (abseil tat in tree to the left).
3. Move up the centre and to the right hand side of the slab to climb the corner where it meets the right hand wall. Move up the slight depression towards the capping roof/ crumbling overhang and arrange gear approx. 3m below the roof. Move down 1m and traverse left to gear towards the left side of the slab. Continue up to the left of the overhangs and continue up the slab with spaced gear to exit the slab at the right top corner to belay in a tree to the right of the gully above the slab, at the base of the continuation grey slab.
4. Continue up the continuation grey slab past a dying tree to the top of the buttress.

Descent – Either abseil down the route or move over the top of the buttress to the main in-situ abseil station in the gully to the left of the buttress.

Paul Wellicimbe laura Fletcher Tim Evans Sep/2010.

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