UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

60m, 3 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Feedback

User Date Notes
rd20 6 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Gear now recovered.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gear now recovered.
cheapsends 25 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I don't think the second pitch is safe to climb until it's been cleaned. When my friend and I attempted it in the weekend of 14/15 Sep 19', I pulled off a big-ish block straight off from the anchor of first pitch/start of the second pitch. I attempted it a few more times and each time there's small crumbly stuff coming down so we decided to bail. Anyone trying this route please be careful.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I don't think the second pitch is safe to climb until it's been cleaned. When my friend and I attempted it in the weekend of 14/15 Sep 19', I pulled off a big-ish block straight off from the anchor of first pitch/start of the second pitch. I attempted it a few more times and each time there's small crumbly stuff coming down so we decided to bail. Anyone trying this route please be careful.
rd20 17 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Hadn't planned in advance to do this route but picked it partly because it is starred in the 2015 CC guidebook where the second pitch is described as fine. Wish I'd known that no one's logged climbing it since 1987! We didn't have time to reclimb/down-climb, but if anyone is keen there's a DMM Dragon Cam 5, a couple of nuts, snapgates and slings, and a screwgate.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hadn't planned in advance to do this route but picked it partly because it is starred in the 2015 CC guidebook where the second pitch is described as fine. Wish I'd known that no one's logged climbing it since 1987! We didn't have time to reclimb/down-climb, but if anyone is keen there's a DMM Dragon Cam 5, a couple of nuts, snapgates and slings, and a screwgate.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
Lightning Wall

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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