Restricted Access
The crag is on private land and continued access depends on climbers maintaining our good relationship with the landowner, who runs his business from the lorry park in the quarry. Be friendly if you meet the owner or his employees and make sure you follow the new access route (details below) to avoid any problems.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
2024 - no restriction - the Raven nest on Going Straight wall does not appear to be in use this year - please report if you see any activity.
Rockfax Description
A trad route up the crack and through the overhang to reach the grass ledge. Then tackle the crack in the upper wall. Borrow a bolt or two and a lower-off from Double Whammy. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Single Malt E2 5b 15m
Climb the wall right of Double Whammy (clipping the first bolt on that route) to a jamming crack and wedged block overhang. Climb the wall above directly to a tricky exit onto the large ledge. Now follow the superb crackline splitting the right side of the upper wall. (F.A. Nick Taylor 21.9.02) The original "single" named route - before Gary did a climb which he called single decker
Nick Taylor 21/Sep/2002.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Smalldale Quarry
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The Link
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)