Zangorilla** E4 6a
55m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A rather scary route that breaches the roof that every other route avoids. Start three metres right of Shadow Wall at a big flake.
1) 6a, 30m. Move up to the steep groove and climb up it until a wall leads you up and slightly right to a ledge on Trilon. Shuffle left to below a smooth upper groove and climb this to reach good holds on Shadow Wall. Move left to belay on one of the ledges below the impressive roof.
2) 6a, 17m. Somewhere up there a line of undercuts mark the way through the roof. Strenuous climbing across this leads to an exciting transition onto the headwall. Bold and exposed climbing on some worrying rock leads directly to the top. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
P1 (6a) 35m. start on the right hand side of the main face. Climb up to a huge flake. From here pull up and left to the base of a groove, climb this past a hollybush to a tricky exit. Climb spikes to the bottom of a slim (rp) groove. Thin technicalities gain the belay above on ledges beneath the roof of P2.

P2 (6a) 20m. Pull wildy on undercuts, to tricky moves establishing yourself on the headwall. A few more moves up the vague groove complete this classic.

Ticklists: Top Five Pass E4's, North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

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This climb is in 35 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

breed - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/15

Pitch 1 to top of shadow wall (this makes a great 3 star E3 6a )
soph - Lead rpt - 31/Aug/15 with Ruth Bevan

Led P2.
Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/14 with Barni

barni - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/14 with luke

P1 Good gear and good (hard) moves. Surprised I got this clean. P2 was good fun to second, but glad I wasn't on lead!
wi11 - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/14 with Henry F

Lead second pitch, great climbing all the way. Deserves 3 stars.
HAJ Francis - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/14

Lead pitch 2. Was pretty nervous before hand, the roof looks so big and steep from the ground, but it gets smaller and less steep as you get closer and it's not actually too hard. The second pitch maybe only felt 5c in the end, though it certainly makes up for that in intimidation and some boldness and is probably a harder E4 than the 1st pitch. Pitch 1 is really good too, pretty well protected with a tricky move.
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/13 with gwen lancashire

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/May/12

E4 6a - Spooky indeed.
Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Adam Lincoln

Adam Lincoln - AltLd - 28/Apr/11 with Rick Kirby

spooky top pitch on creaking, detached columns. Maybe only 5c, but feels serious.
switch - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Blair

1st pitch only
feilx - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with Heather

soph - AltLd O/S - May/10 with Tony Stone, Dan McManus

If it was 1 pitch it would be E5. both pitches are stout E4 with hard 6a moves. Superb climbing, not to be missed or under-estimated.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Mikey G

lead 2nd pitch. both pitches are worthy of 3 stars in own right, top notch pitch!
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with alex mason

mr mills - 2010 with ioan d

Howard Lawledge - 2010 with luke

Superb E4.
JulesV - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Shauna Cunningham

Hidden - AltLd - 11/May/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

IOAN D - Lead O/S - 02/May/08 with Mills

led first pitch, took a short fall on the top groove.
mr mills - Lead dog - Apr/08 with ioan d

both pitches worth E4 imo
bronsonite - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/06 with Nathan Lawrence

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/04

joe c ook - Lead O/S - Jul/03 with T. Gore

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - Apr/03 with Viv

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jun/93

NickJH - 2nd - May/90 with D Picker

Twid pulled the big block out of the traverse. Exciting for those below. (Check date)
Nick Biven - 2nd - 1990 with Rich Whitwell

Hidden - Lead - 1988

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Sep/87

Hidden - 1984

Ivan Machin - 24/Aug/82 with Jon Mellor

Hidden - Lead - 30/May/81

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jamestaylor92, Liam FLeming

Total votes cast 28
hard E50 of 5
E50 of 5
easy E50 of 5
hard E42 of 5
E42 of 5
easy E41 of 5
hard E30 of 5
E30 of 5
easy E30 of 5
hard 6b0 of 11
6b0 of 11
easy 6b0 of 11
hard 6a0 of 11
6a10 of 11
easy 6a1 of 11
hard 5c0 of 11
5c0 of 11
easy 5c0 of 11
3 Stars8 of 12
2 Stars4 of 12
1 Star0 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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