Gwynedd > Carreg Wastad >
Zangorilla* E4 6a

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55m, 2 pitches. P1 (6a) 35m. start on the right hand side of the main face. Climb up to a huge flake. From here pull up and left to the base of a groove, climb this past a hollybush to a tricky exit. Climb spikes to the bottom of a slim (rp) groove. Thin technicalities gain the belay above on ledges beneath the roof of P2. P2 (6a) 20m. Pull wildy on undercuts, to tricky moves establishing yourself on the headwall. A few more moves up the vague groove complete this classic.

Ticklists: Top Five Pass E4's, North Wales Rock Graded List.

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This climb is in 26 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Lead pitch 2. Was pretty nervous before hand, the roof looks so big and steep from the ground, but it gets smaller and less steep as you get closer and it's not actually too hard. The second pitch maybe only felt 5c in the end, though it certainly makes up for that in intimidation and some boldness and is probably a harder adjectival E4 than the 1st pitch. Pitch 1 is really good too, pretty well protected with a tricky move.
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/13 with gwen lancashire

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/May/12

E4 6a - Spooky indeed.
Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Adam Lincoln

Adam Lincoln - AltLd - 28/Apr/11 with Rick Kirby

spooky top pitch on creaking, detached columns. Maybe only 5c, but feels serious.
switch - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Blair

1st pitch only
feilx - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with Heather

soph - AltLd O/S - May/10 with Tony Stone, Dan McManus

If it was 1 pitch it would be E5. both pitches are stout E4 with hard 6a moves. Superb climbing, not to be missed or under-estimated.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Mikey G

lead 2nd pitch. both pitches are worthy of 3 stars in own right, top notch pitch!
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with alex mason

mr mills - 2010 with ioan d

Howard Lawledge - 2010 with luke

Superb E4.
JulesV - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Shauna Cunningham

Hidden - AltLd - 11/May/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

IOAN D - Lead O/S - 02/May/08 with Mills

led first pitch, took a short fall on the top groove.
mr mills - Lead dog - Apr/08 with ioan d

both pitches worth E4 imo
bronsonite - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/06 with Nathan Lawrence

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/04

joe c ook - Lead O/S - Jul/03 with T. Gore

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - Apr/03 with Viv

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jun/93

NickJH - 2nd - May/90 with D Picker

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Sep/87

Ivan Machin - 24/Aug/82 with Jon Mellor

Hidden - Lead - 30/May/81

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Liam FLeming, Hidden, Hidden

Total votes cast 21
hard E50 of 3
E50 of 3
easy E50 of 3
hard E40 of 3
E42 of 3
easy E41 of 3
hard E30 of 3
E30 of 3
easy E30 of 3
hard 6b0 of 9
6b0 of 9
easy 6b0 of 9
hard 6a0 of 9
6a8 of 9
easy 6a1 of 9
hard 5c0 of 9
5c0 of 9
easy 5c0 of 9
3 Stars5 of 9
2 Stars4 of 9
1 Star0 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent

Lead10 of 26 (38.5%)
Followed2 of 26 (7.7%)
Alt Leads10 of 26 (38.5%)
Unknown4 of 26 (15.4%)

'Climbed'10 of 26 (38.5%)
clean O/S15 of 26 (57.7%)
dogged1 of 26 (3.8%)