150m, 6 pitches.
Route is on the Lower South East Nose.
Description from Northern Highlands South Guidebook -
'A sustained route of largely clean rock but dry weather recommended. The line is open to variation. Start left of the crest of the nose.'
The nose is not very well defined. To find it locate bay with rowan tree at base of adjacent route 'A Right Cheek' and move several metres leftwards to the base of the lowest rocks.
1. 30m 4b Take a right trending line up clean slabs and a steep section to below another clean slab. Belay at block or higher up in grassy niche.
2. 25m 4b Go out right on to the nose in an exposed position and climb this to a ledge.
3. 15m 4b Climb the crest on good holds to a another good ledge.
4. 15m 4c Climb a steep wall right of a flake system (old nuts with rope in the flake) to join and finish up the flake.
5. 25m 4b Go up 2-3m towards the overhangs (dont go too high), then traverse right along ledge, climb a corner and return left to the crest. Climb the crest to easier angled ground.
6. 40m 4b A short slabby section followed by a rib on the left keeps to clean rock as long as possible.
Description from Northern Highlands South Guidebook -
'A sustained route of largely clean rock but dry weather recommended. The line is open to variation. Start left of the crest of the nose.'
The nose is not very well defined. To find it locate bay with rowan tree at base of adjacent route 'A Right Cheek' and move several metres leftwards to the base of the lowest rocks.
1. 30m 4b Take a right trending line up clean slabs and a steep section to below another clean slab. Belay at block or higher up in grassy niche.
2. 25m 4b Go out right on to the nose in an exposed position and climb this to a ledge.
3. 15m 4b Climb the crest on good holds to a another good ledge.
4. 15m 4c Climb a steep wall right of a flake system (old nuts with rope in the flake) to join and finish up the flake.
5. 25m 4b Go up 2-3m towards the overhangs (dont go too high), then traverse right along ledge, climb a corner and return left to the crest. Climb the crest to easier angled ground.
6. 40m 4b A short slabby section followed by a rib on the left keeps to clean rock as long as possible.
T.W.Patey 07/Oct/1961.
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Route of Interest
Raven's Gully Direct Finish (Summer)
Grade: VS ***
(Buachaille Etive Mor)