300m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
III, 240m. A marginally easier option than the Vent du Dragon, this excellent little route varies significantly with conditions so get it when it's fat or be prepared for some scratching!
Approach - Abseil from the bridge which links the two summits of the Aiguille du Midi, into the Cunningham Couloir below. There is a pair of bolts at the southern end of the bridge. The first abseil is 55m and the bolted anchor you're aiming for is hard to spot until you're almost on it. It is in a corner, directly in the fall line of the abseil off the bridge, 5m above the base of the Cunningham Couloir. If you can't find it there are other anchors around, albeit of varying quality. After this there are 2 x 50m abseils on the right bank of the couloir, a further one from a rock island in the middle of the couloir and a final 30m abseil on the left bank brings you to the foot of the route.
1) 3, 60m. As for the Vent du Dragon.
2) 2, 20m. Continue for 8m up the snowy mixed ground to reach a snowy col. Step right here to belay at the left-hand end of a snow slope.
3) 4, 55m. Cross the snow slope to the right and climb the steep corner. In good conditions this is straightforward but with minimal ice it is a tricky exercise in dry tooling, at about M4. Above the corner, continue up 60 degree ice to a belay at the foot of a rock buttress on the left.
4) 4+, 55m. Step right back onto the 60 degree ice and climb this into an increasingly narrow gully. 5m after the gully steepens and narrows to just a metre or so wide, exit it onto a steep, juggy rock wall on the right. This is usually best climbed with (gloved) hands instead of ice axes and leads to a belay on a sloping ledge, just right of an icy runnel.
5) 3, 50m. Step left into the icy runnel and follow this up some 70 degree ice and some short mixed steps to join the Arête des Cosmiques. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Goulotte Profit / Perroux III 4, M5

Ticklists: 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter.


ClimberDateStyle
niallsash 26/Feb -
Richard Kendrick 18/Feb AltLd O/S
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2016 -
Hidden 22/May/15 Lead
joelevanschamonix 10/May/15 AltLd β
with Tim Oliver
alpinestar_no1 24/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Great day out! Route was in super conditions. Very fun mixed crux in the 3.rd pitch.

with Jakob Fisker
benclimbing 10/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Awesome route. Some thin ice but it's such good quality you only need a bit! The chimney pitch had some fantastic climbing with a lovely mixed exit

with guy steven
James W 10/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 20/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
jonnie3430 20/Mar/15 AltLd
Suzana 19/Oct/14 AltLd
with Mario Kellerer
Alasdair Fulton 09/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

09/10/14 - With Gareth and Sandy - fun and for acclimatisation. Did a variation for the 4th pitch - headed left instead of into the main gully, then joined the main gully again just by the penultimate belay. Some thin and technical ice and a seal-like manoeuvre to get round the roof. 27/02/14 - Great fun route, easy for M5 - more M4/+. Running a bit late due to the usual midi shit show so only started abbing in at noon. Just made the last lift back to town after Ueli Stecking it up the last pitch and along the Cosmiques.

with James Sutton
Hidden 06/Oct/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 06/Oct/14 AltLd
Hidden 06/Oct/14 AltLd
machars 04/Oct/14 AltLd
with Charley
DigitalSteak 04/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Superb route. Consistant, high quality climbing the whole way.

Rob Royle 06/Sep/14 2nd

Fantastic day! Abseiled in off the bridge, awesome conditions on the route, great climb!

with Mountain Guide, Steph
Ken Applegate 20/Aug/14 AltLd

Great route, and in good condition.

with Steve
darcan 05/Apr/14 AltLd
Hidden 12/Mar/14 AltLd
jimmatthews 07/Mar/14 AltLd

Thin but great

with Richard Andrews
QuentinSu ?/Nov/13 -
Hidden 21/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/13 AltLd
Hidden 04/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/13 Lead
Chris Reid ?/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Rob84 30/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Rob Adie
Hidden ??/2011 -
Dave Almond 08/Oct/10 AltLd

alt to dru couloir

with Mark Thomas
Hidden 20/Apr/09 -
Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Col Kingshott, Hidden, Hidden, mynyddresident
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