|2 pitches. The obvious, east-facing chimney behind the huge boulder.
1. 50ft 4c/5a. From the back of the cave, climb the constricted chimney & crack to the faultline. Awkward climbing in places, but good gear to be found. Move onto the ledge on the left to find a hard won belay.
2. 90ft 4c/5a. Climb easily up to an overlap above the left end of the belay ledge, (small cams very useful) step down right, and continue under dubious blocks to a break, to pull through this and gain a short corner up to the left, via an obvious flake crack (better gear here). Go up the corner and exit left at the top to a two stake belay.|
R J Crewe, G Smith 02/Jun/1973
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