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|Conwy > The Diamond >
|Wall of Evening Light|| 7b+ |
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|38m. A majestic free version of the first two pitches of this Edwards epic from the 70s. It gives one of the longest and most sustained climbs in the area which the first ascensionist described as a "massive overhanging excursion on jugs". It is best climbed in one long pitch although the aided version split it.
50m. Starting from a short distance up the ramp of Gemstone move up the line of gear to a porthole at 15m. Leave this (hard) to a hand ledge then traverse left (optional stance on the lower-off to the left). Move back right and climb a line of small scoops to a shake out. Move left and follow a corner to the belay. There are 16 bolts plus some old pegs so you shouldn't get lost. Double abseil for descent. © ROCKFAX|
Epic sport route with some fair size run outs despite recent re-bolting. (70m rope allows you to lower off in one)
Andy Pollit in 2 pitches C Plant in single pitch o/s
Ticklists: CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain.
This climb is in 5 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.
Wow, amazing. Went all the way to the top in evening light :-) . Awesome route, tricky route finding and sustained but never desperate. Feels very euro. 70m rope essential
Glyn - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/14 with Sophie, Luke, Will Oates
Great conditions on the crag - I still needed to try hard on this. It felt harder than Boat People - brilliant climbing though.
keefe - Lead β - 01/Sep/13
Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/12
On sight to first lower off, felt like 7b. Three star route just to there.
Jon Garside - Lead - 01/Sep/12 with Becky
Ally Smith - Lead dog - 20/Oct/10 with Pete H
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, stp, LRob, Hidden, eugeneth