30m. A poor start leads up the mushrooms to a lower-off (5 to this point but not a good pitch). Then launch out into no-man's land on the tufas to reach a lower-off in space. © Rockfax
FA. Kaspar & Ruth Ochsner, Felix Meier May/2001
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Yep - it's that last move isn't it! First route of the day so wasn't expecting anything but to nearly onsight it only to drop the last move was a bit of a kicker. Never mind, good fun navigating through the stalactites!
Crux move got me. Had 3 goes and each time got to the crux but couldn't power through the key move (reaching up high to the left pinch). First go turned out to be the best.
Don't know how to log this. Onsight to touching chain but missed grab and came off. Chain in a ridiculous spot so clipping it becomes the hardest move on the climb.
|Will Mortimer||10/Apr||Lead rpt||
alex rowe, Chris Joyce
|Kev Little||04/Apr||Lead O/S|
Third attempt. Awesome moves on huge holds through awe inspiring terrain. Last few moves are the hardest.
Just couldn't quite clip the belay. Elected not to try for Redders
eleri, Luke, Ali
Incredible 3d climbing. Never been on something like this before. Mind boggling and awe inspiring.
30m of climbing through some outrageous terrain for a 1 move wonder!!! Hawaii 5-0 finish, better to skip the last clip.
Tom Jordan, Jenni
|Liam Ingram||20/Apr/14||Lead dog||
Nick Bryan, Anne Peale
Spectacular romp through the tufas, but the crux is no joke.
The most bizarre thing I've ever climbed. Got lost in the forest of stalactites!
Had tried once 2 years ago. Sent putting the draws in. big move up to the chains. Totally outrageous climbing, Shaun and Alex woulda got lost without the draws to follow!
Alex Mccan, Shaun Humphreys
|tom russell||?/Apr/14||Lead β|
|Derek Ryden||19/Oct/13||Lead dnf||
If the chains were 2m lower, this would be the best 6b in the world! Failed at very top. Should have gone for it....
|Laurence Everitt||12/May/13||Lead RP||
Super steep pumpy climbing in between a couple no hand rests, then crank as hard as you can on the awful last move... Why would you put the chains there... would be an imense route if it finished on the bucket jug instead of the dodgy tufa pinch
|Sam Simpson||20/Apr/13||Lead RP||
1st rpt, quite easy apart from an awkward last move.
|Mark Grist||20/Apr/13||Lead RP|
|Mike Owen||19/Apr/13||Lead O/S||
|Serena Lambre||12/Apr/13||Lead dog||
Paul Watts, Alex Booker
|Tom Livingstone||31/Mar/13||Lead O/S|
|dan gibson||11/Nov/12||Lead O/S||
What is it with clipping chains? Failed at the very end after superb and very, very steep tufa wrestling. Is it ethical to grab the threaded sling left of the lower-off to make the clip?
Fell at crux...but what a route. The top half is just spectacular. One of the most amazing routes I've climbed...just thrilled to be in amongst such phenomenal territory.
Refused to grab the chains on the first attempt and fell trying to pull up to clip. Grabbed them for the redpoint as this appears to be the form. Actually a 'grab' cord bolted next to the chains. Loved crawling through the roof elephants; the finish is well pumpy!
last move's just a bit hard in comparison to the rest!
chris middleton, Polly Tarrant
easy up through stalactites, more of a boulder problem in the sky afterwards, and a wet one at that!
lead up to the jug, got the pinch (rubbish) got it higher up, (loads better), got really scared and jumped off. first outdoor fall, so 3-d the climbing!!
Only pitch 1 (5a)
|Adam Booth||15/Oct/11||Lead O/S||
Crux top moves
|Liam FLeming||09/Oct/11||Lead O/S||
Ben Smith, Jochen Bauer
Classic route. Hard to visualise HOW overhanging this route is until you climb past the clips and turn to clip- it is then that you notice the trail of draws hanging vertically, yet all at the same height.... hard to imagine... especially since you climb the hold thing perfectly upright! 3d climbing at its best!
|trevor macalonan||30/Apr/11||Lead dnf|
|Qisheng Xie||29/Apr/11||Lead O/S||
Powered out on the last move; was running on times (end of fourth day on). Cool route though.
Will Calvert, James Kauntze, Alan Rosier
First pitch only (5a). Better than Rockfax suggests - the local guidebook gives it 2 stars.
|Russell Birkett||16/Oct/10||Lead O/S||
wilson and John
1st half only 5a, warm up climb
Dorset Climbing Group
|Stuart Johnston||?/May/10||Lead O/S|
|Phill Mitch||??/2010||Lead O/S||
Ran out of steam to do last powerful move
1st pitch only as a warm-up.
|Ramon Marin||11/Apr/07||Lead O/S||
|whispering nic||?/Sep/05||Lead O/S||