Rockfax Description
30m. A poor start leads up the mushrooms to a lower-off (5 to this point but not a good pitch). Then launch out into no-man's land on the tufas to reach a lower-off in space. © Rockfax

FA. Kaspar & Ruth Ochsner, Felix Meier May/2001

joshdownham23 24/Oct Lead O/S
Matt Fry 17/Oct Lead RP

Dropped last move on the onsight attempt! Probably not the best warm up in hindsight...

merlin138 17/Oct Lead dnf

NOT a warm up...... Matt Fry!!

Hidden 01/Oct Lead β
Richard Fletcher ?/Oct Lead
Marti999 28/Sep Lead β
wilchivs 18/Sep Lead dog

Yep - it's that last move isn't it! First route of the day so wasn't expecting anything but to nearly onsight it only to drop the last move was a bit of a kicker. Never mind, good fun navigating through the stalactites!

DavidR 16/Sep Lead G/U

Crux move got me. Had 3 goes and each time got to the crux but couldn't power through the key move (reaching up high to the left pinch). First go turned out to be the best.

Gloria 14/Aug Lead dog
with Dimitra Makridou
climberchristy 03/Aug Lead

Don't know how to log this. Onsight to touching chain but missed grab and came off. Chain in a ridiculous spot so clipping it becomes the hardest move on the climb.

with Al
dannyboy83 02/Jun Lead O/S
with Lena
lena.drapella 02/Jun 2nd dog
MrBIond 30/Apr Lead RP
mrteale 29/Apr Lead dog
Hidden 24/Apr 2nd
Hidden 16/Apr Lead O/S
krasavenko 16/Apr 2nd β
Will Mortimer 10/Apr Lead rpt
with alex rowe, Chris Joyce
Dandan82 06/Apr Lead O/S
with Tomar
Kev Little 04/Apr Lead O/S
with shazzaa
henry.jeffreys 01/Apr Lead dog
raymondlinklater 01/Apr Lead dog
LucasHarazin 06/Nov/14 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Nov/14 Lead RP
FelixPeterken 28/Oct/14 Lead RP

Third attempt. Awesome moves on huge holds through awe inspiring terrain. Last few moves are the hardest.

with AndrewP
Hidden 27/Oct/14 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Oct/14 Lead dog
arthur_de_briton 14/Oct/14 Lead dog
Bristoldave 23/Sep/14 Lead

Just couldn't quite clip the belay. Elected not to try for Redders

with eleri, Luke, Ali
Dan724 13/Sep/14 Lead RP
with Dan Ely
jakk 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
jackappleby 27/Jun/14 Lead RP

Incredible 3d climbing. Never been on something like this before. Mind boggling and awe inspiring.

with Rowan
Jon_Warner 22/May/14 Lead RP

30m of climbing through some outrageous terrain for a 1 move wonder!!! Hawaii 5-0 finish, better to skip the last clip.

with Tom Jordan, Jenni
Hidden 14/May/14 Lead β
TomJ 14/May/14 Lead dog
with Jimmy
Hidden 06/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/14 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Apr/14 Lead
Danhan 25/Apr/14 Lead dnf
with Kit, Nick
alexmcmillan 20/Apr/14 Lead dog
Liam Ingram 20/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Nick Bryan, Anne Peale
annep11 20/Apr/14 Lead dog

Spectacular romp through the tufas, but the crux is no joke.

adamjeffs 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with mum
Dawn_K_B 15/Apr/14 Lead dnf

The most bizarre thing I've ever climbed. Got lost in the forest of stalactites!

shaunhumphreys 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
benkelsey 12/Apr/14 Lead β

Had tried once 2 years ago. Sent putting the draws in. big move up to the chains. Totally outrageous climbing, Shaun and Alex woulda got lost without the draws to follow!

with Alex Mccan, Shaun Humphreys
Ri 04/Apr/14 Lead O/S


nickb1 ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
tom russell ?/Apr/14 Lead β
shark 01/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Tom
Derek Ryden 19/Oct/13 Lead dnf

If the chains were 2m lower, this would be the best 6b in the world! Failed at very top. Should have gone for it....

with Glynne Andrew
Hidden 15/Oct/13 Lead O/S
quiffhanger ?/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 12/May/13 Lead RP


alek 12/May/13 Lead β
GrahamGiles 25/Apr/13 Lead RP

Super steep pumpy climbing in between a couple no hand rests, then crank as hard as you can on the awful last move... Why would you put the chains there... would be an imense route if it finished on the bucket jug instead of the dodgy tufa pinch

with Joe Taylor
Hidden 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 20/Apr/13 Lead RP

1st rpt, quite easy apart from an awkward last move.

with Alan Barnes
Mark Grist 20/Apr/13 Lead RP
Mike Owen 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Serena Lambre 12/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Paul Watts, Alex Booker
Hidden 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with JRAL
dan gibson 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
Richard_Lowe 04/Oct/12 Lead dog

What is it with clipping chains? Failed at the very end after superb and very, very steep tufa wrestling. Is it ethical to grab the threaded sling left of the lower-off to make the clip?

DavidR 26/Sep/12 Lead dog

Fell at crux...but what a route. The top half is just spectacular. One of the most amazing routes I've climbed...just thrilled to be in amongst such phenomenal territory.

AlistairB 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Lisa
steve.warrington 11/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead RP
westyb3 03/May/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Harrison
climbinmunkey 23/Apr/12 Lead RP

Refused to grab the chains on the first attempt and fell trying to pull up to clip. Grabbed them for the redpoint as this appears to be the form. Actually a 'grab' cord bolted next to the chains. Loved crawling through the roof elephants; the finish is well pumpy!

with Helen
CRiddiford 04/Apr/12 Lead dog

last move's just a bit hard in comparison to the rest!

with Chris
Hidden 04/Apr/12 TR dog
dctarrant2000 03/Apr/12 Lead β
with chris middleton, Polly Tarrant
Nick1812P 03/Apr/12 Lead dnf
with Kalymnos 2012
JamieSparkes 03/Apr/12 Lead dnf

easy up through stalactites, more of a boulder problem in the sky afterwards, and a wet one at that!

llamaglama 03/Apr/12 2nd
with Jam
Hidden 02/Apr/12 Lead β
benkelsey 02/Apr/12 Lead dnf

lead up to the jug, got the pinch (rubbish) got it higher up, (loads better), got really scared and jumped off. first outdoor fall, so 3-d the climbing!!

with JRae, Anna, Remus Knowles
tom harrison ?/Apr/12 Lead
steve.warrington ??/2012 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Only pitch 1 (5a)

with Helen Garrett
sam_cox 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Crux top moves

keefe 14/Oct/11 -
Liam FLeming 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with karen dalzell
stingray_tara ?/Oct/11 TR dog
with Ben Smith, Jochen Bauer
Gus ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with mini pickles
mux 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
ChrisCSC89 01/Sep/11 Lead RP

2nd go

with Nic, Ross, Wilson
Twisty ?/Sep/11 Lead RP

Classic route. Hard to visualise HOW overhanging this route is until you climb past the clips and turn to clip- it is then that you notice the trail of draws hanging vertically, yet all at the same height.... hard to imagine... especially since you climb the hold thing perfectly upright! 3d climbing at its best!

with Byron Buck
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead dog
trevor macalonan 30/Apr/11 Lead dnf
with Tim
timharrison 30/Apr/11 Lead dog
Qisheng Xie 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Mike Lewis
Hidden 29/Apr/11 2nd dog
RAH 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
jgustafsson 13/Apr/11 Lead dog

Powered out on the last move; was running on times (end of fourth day on). Cool route though.

with Jen
Billg 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert, James Kauntze, Alan Rosier
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
with keefe
keefe ??/2011 -
AdrianP 10/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Riikka
Simon Caldwell 09/Nov/10 Lead

First pitch only (5a). Better than Rockfax suggests - the local guidebook gives it 2 stars.

with Carmen
Robbie_Phillips ?/Nov/10 -
skygodley 21/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with SarahM
Hidden 21/Oct/10 Lead RP
Russell Birkett 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Tim Rankin
IceBun 15/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with wilson and John
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
thelizard 14/Sep/10 Lead β

1st half only 5a, warm up climb

with Dorset Climbing Group
MonkeyDawson 25/Aug/10 AltLd
Stuart Johnston ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Pete Brown
andyinglis 10/Oct/09 Lead dog

Ran out of steam to do last powerful move

with mal meach
DavidR 20/May/09 Lead rpt

1st pitch only as a warm-up.

Hidden 20/May/09 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
jfreeman 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
simonr 29/Mar/09 Lead β
La Mont ??/2009 -
marky 21/May/08 Lead O/S
with Sharon
Ramon Marin 11/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Steve Ahern
Hidden ??/2007 -
whispering nic ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with The Wife
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead β
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, JoshuaLewis, Hidden, chris_woodsy, Hidden, Hidden, Gloria, RBonney, cjb1992, bnmbnm, whenry, Hidden, nolan, BeccaSnowden, trevor macalonan
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set