40m.

Rockfax Description
A major classic that weaves through the tufa forest and which is still brilliant despite the loss of the huge stal that used to offer and unique rest. The upper half is where the action is. © Rockfax

FA. Olivier Didon, Guy Abert, Lionel Catsoyannis, Paola Pezzini 25/Dec/2001


ClimberDateStyle
dbrooks 11/Jun Lead RP

First go this year, found lots of no hands rests.. Has been rebolted since last year

with Ben, Aden
PaddyN 18/May Lead O/S

major battle, flash pumped! bad choice for warmup, but excellent route

Hidden 29/Apr Lead RP
Billg 10/Apr Lead
Dawn_K_B 27/Mar Lead dog

Really wish I had managed this, got potentially the most angry I ever have with a climb. Tried mega hard a few times though and once I made it through what I had thought was the crux, I found the next part harder! Found clipping the bolts near the crux hard, each one was about 10cm out of reach so I had to clip off crap holds, and then move back right. Definitely one to try again, what a mega epic route!

Teappleby 27/Mar Lead β

Last thing of the day, putting in the draws after the crux, took a long time and was a proper mental fight high up, really didn't want to blow it so milked the rests but had to fight the desire to keep moving!

with Kaly2016
dom94 23/Mar Lead O/S

Absolutely top climb!

with Eloise
Eloise_SW 23/Mar Lead dnf
with Shekkar
leopolian 23/Mar Lead dnf

Loooooonnnngggg. Got shut down at the crux.

Matt Harmon 23/Mar TR dog

end of day to retrieve draws, really cool climbing but so very long and at the end of day meant i needed more than a few rests

Jake Young 23/Mar Lead β

Possibly the best route of the trip, amazing.

with Kalymnos 2016
Hidden 14/Mar Lead dog
CRead ?/Mar Lead dnf
andybirtwistle ??/2016 -
polivmi1 ??/2016 -
Hidden 02/Nov/15 Lead β
joshdownham23 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S
AJM 25/Oct/15 Lead RP

Second go. A poor choice of warmup but wanted to beat the rush...

Hidden 24/Oct/15 Lead G/U
3 Names 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/15 Lead RP
Stu Lightford 07/Oct/15 Lead RP

Superb climbing. Psyched to get this second go after I found the rests. Took an epic at the chains trying the flash though. Well worth a tick!

Emilysaladfingers 02/Oct/15 Lead RP

Totally brilliant!

with pete D, julie carrol, mat welsh
Hidden 02/Oct/15 Lead RP
just one more 24/Sep/15 Lead RP

Superb, slipped off it a few days ago. Warm up, pumped stupid, not that hard but pretty wild

with Dan Birkby, LucasHarazin
Hidden 23/Sep/15 Lead O/S
danbirkby 21/Sep/15 TR dnf
with SteveB
just one more 21/Sep/15 Lead dog
with Dan Birkby
galerito 17/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/May/15 Lead
Hidden 08/May/15 TR
Hidden 07/May/15 Lead dog
chakrit 01/May/15 Lead O/S

7a for sure

Alastair R 25/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Last route of the week. Outrageous!

with Clare
dbrooks 24/Apr/15 Lead dog

pretty intimidating! will be back for RP

with shaun
james1978 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with pam
Dandan82 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Heavenly

with Tomar
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
LucasHarazin 02/Nov/14 Lead β
JulesV ?/Nov/14 Lead O/S
markfairbank 27/Oct/14 Lead dnf

Beasted!

with Anne Gumbley, Ray Sharples
afrosam 18/Oct/14 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Oct/14 Lead dnf
Bristoldave 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Didn't make the most of the rests- so pumped :). It can be cleaned from lead btw.

with eleri, Luke, Ali
Dan724 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Ely
Jon_Warner 22/May/14 Lead dnf

TooooOOooo tired. Next year.

with Tom Jordan, Jenni
Hidden 14/May/14 Lead O/S
buzby78 06/May/14 Lead rpt
with Jess
Hidden ?/May/14 2nd dog
Hidden 30/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Liam Ingram 28/Apr/14 Lead dog
nickb1 28/Apr/14 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 27/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Pathological_Climber 27/Apr/14 Lead β
Hidden 26/Apr/14 2nd RP
Ian Broome 26/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Hard to grade, its climbing but not as you know it. Full on bar brawl, squirming underhand nonsense, unique. Felt pokey, should have exetended most of the runners, could only just clip the anchor.

Gus 24/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with sara whiteley
Hidden 22/Apr/14 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Apr/14 Lead dog
Ri 06/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Kyuzo ??/2014 -
Julie Carroll 29/Nov/13 Lead RP
with Dan Gibson
RFWilkie 21/Oct/13 Lead dog

Not a good warm up! Made a bit of a hash of it.

Michael Allday 21/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 17/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic. Draws already in

with Rod White
Hidden 15/Oct/13 Lead O/S
PeteH 04/Oct/13 Lead O/S

This is solid 7a after the stalactite fell off. Much harder than DNA, for example.

with Brian McAlinden
meribur ?/Oct/13 Lead β
Rich Kirby 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Amazing...7a

dswansonlow 14/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Shelly
adamjeffs 02/May/13 Lead O/S
Pippa 01/May/13 Lead dog

Terrifying

mountain_jay 01/May/13 2nd
martroberts 15/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant steep climbing! One of the routes of the trip

Mike Owen 11/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
matiamallia 05/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Tom Livingstone 05/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with JRAL
marky 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Repeat for warm up

with Sharon
Hidden 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Mat Welsh ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Long, pumpy, superb... maybe hard for the grade ?

with Emily J
Bargate_Champ 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
mike reed ??/2013 Lead O/S
dan gibson 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
Fredrik Nyberg 26/Oct/12 Lead O/S
tommytuffa 25/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Libby, Felix
dannyboy83 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
dan ely 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with em
Steve Hillier 16/May/12 Lead dog
with Dave Rose
Hidden 16/May/12 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 16/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/12 Lead O/S
westyb3 03/May/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Harrison
Fran S8 07/Apr/12 Lead β
Hidden 02/Apr/12 TR O/S
thomasadixon 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
tom harrison ?/Apr/12 Lead
ukb shark 26/Oct/11 Lead β

Had done 9 years ago

with Toby Foord-Kelcey
sam_cox 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/11 Lead O/S
keefe 13/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Liam FLeming 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with karen dalzell
Wayne.Gaudin 08/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Just didn't have the endurance. No hard moves, just too pumped to keep going

with Adrian Berry
La benya ?/Oct/11 Lead β

Amazing! 7a

Ramon Marin 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with dave gary
fildac 24/Sep/11 2nd rpt
mux 17/Sep/11 Lead rpt
RdC 11/Sep/11 Lead RP

7a in guide book is about right.

wilsonmackenzie 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
ChrisCSC89 11/Sep/11 Lead β
with Nic, Ross, Wilson
fildac 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Ian Ash 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead
con321 26/Apr/11 Lead RP

fell first go came down rested and sent it second go 7a in the guide book :D

Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Billg 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert, James Kauntze, Alan Rosier
jgustafsson 08/Apr/11 TR RP

Failed onsight, embarrassingly mostly because I found it exposed and slightly run out. Did it fairly easily on toprope to clean it.

with Jen
ThomasB ?/Apr/11 Lead dog

amazing scary climb and what a pump!

AdrianP 10/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Riikka
Robbie_Phillips ?/Nov/10 -
Chris Shepherd 29/Oct/10 Lead β
Milnes 21/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with Stacey
chris_j_s 20/Oct/10 Lead dog

Onsight attempt. Unfortunately made one mistake but climbed the rest without too much trouble. :-( What a route though, magnificent!

with Nicola Bishop
skygodley 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Just a fantastic route

with SarahM
Marti999 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
Glenn Sutcliffe 18/Oct/10 -
with Mike Waters
Russell Birkett 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Superb.

with Tim Rankin
Hidden 15/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 30/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Quite pumpy...good kneebarring helps. Tricky move under the former tufa.

with Kaly 2010 posse
Greenman28 23/Sep/10 -
lanky_bastard 18/Sep/10 2nd dog
AlistairB 18/Sep/10 Lead β

Flashed having belayed Lisa on it, outrageously pumped at the top despite the many good rests.

with Lisa
LisaA 18/Sep/10 Lead dog
Hidden 11/May/10 Lead O/S
stargazer85 ??/2010 -
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
TonyB 13/Nov/09 Lead RP

second go. Given 7a in the guidebook after the stalactite broke in 2007.

with Anni
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/09 Lead O/S
reapey ?/Oct/09 2nd

2nd to clean it for pete, steeper than it looks

with phil
Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead
DavidR 28/May/09 Lead O/S

Seconded (badly) 3 years ago, when the big stalactite was in place. On-sight lead (without the stalactite) on the same day as a clean lead of DNA. A great day!

Hidden 28/May/09 Lead O/S
nige pacer ?/May/09 Lead dog
marky 10/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Sharon
Sgt. Vest 03/Apr/09 Lead dog
jfreeman 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
simonr 29/Mar/09 Lead β
La Mont ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/08 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Since big stalagtite fell off we thought it was worth 7a,be careful to keep right as a 7b+ shares the same bolt(not in the guide!) then heads off left into hard ground.AS of October 09.

with peter and dean greenwood
Jon Garside ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/May/08 Lead O/S
odox ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ?/Oct/07 Lead
Castleclimber ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S

The most beautiful route i've ever climbed!

with Marte Loefman
Hidden ??/2007 -
Richard Horn 20/Oct/06 Lead RP
Steve Crowe 03/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Before the big tufa broke.

with KM
Chad123 ?/Oct/06 2nd O/S

Awesome route through some impressive terrain, almost as exciting to second, good lead by the missis.....

with Emily
DavidR 13/Jun/06 2nd dog
Hidden 13/Jun/06 Lead O/S
gonzo_ls9 ?/Apr/06 Lead dog
with nol
Hidden ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Sep/05 -
with The Wife
Kev Little ??/2005 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 04/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with Nigel Baker
Hidden ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ?/Oct/98 Lead

Great climb. 60m rope just long enough!

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, chris_woodsy, raymondlinklater, RBonney, cjb1992, ChrisBrooke, lewiz, RFWilkie, Hidden, alias dave, UnkArl, trevor macalonan, MonkeyDawson, Hidden, HIGHTOWER, Hidden, SamStokes, AndyM-LVB
Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 69
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set