Rockfax Description
35m. One of the most amazing routes you will ever find up some incredible ground on outrageous rock formations. The climbing is relatively straightforward but the position is itimidating and the route is not to be underestimated. A 70m rope is needed to lower-off and the pitch can only be cleaned by someone following it, not as you lower off. Clear the deck of people before you climb it. Photo page 5. © Rockfax

FA. Olivier Didon, Guy Abert, Lionel Catsoyannis, Paola Pezzini 25/Dec/2001

Hidden 02/Nov Lead β
joshdownham23 31/Oct Lead O/S
AJM 25/Oct Lead RP

Second go. A poor choice of warmup but wanted to beat the rush...

Alex Thompson 24/Oct Lead G/U

Got freaked out by steepness! Had rest then finished off.

3 Names 17/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Oct Lead RP
Stu Lightford 07/Oct Lead RP

Superb climbing. Psyched to get this second go after I found the rests. Took an epic at the chains trying the flash though. Well worth a tick!

Emilysaladfingers 02/Oct Lead RP

Totally brilliant!

with pete D, julie carrol, mat welsh
Hidden 02/Oct Lead RP
just one more 24/Sep Lead RP

Superb, slipped off it a few days ago. Warm up, pumped stupid, not that hard but pretty wild

with Dan Birkby, lucas
Hidden 23/Sep Lead O/S
danbirkby 21/Sep TR dnf
with SteveB
just one more 21/Sep Lead dog
with Dan Birkby
galerito 17/May Lead rpt
Hidden 08/May Lead
Hidden 08/May TR
Hidden 07/May Lead dog
chakrit 01/May Lead O/S

7a for sure

Alastair R 25/Apr Lead O/S

Last route of the week. Outrageous!

with Clare
dbrooks 24/Apr Lead dog

pretty intimidating! will be back for RP

with shaun
james1978 10/Apr Lead O/S
with pam
Dandan82 06/Apr Lead O/S


with Tomar
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
LucasHarazin 02/Nov/14 Lead β
JulesV ?/Nov/14 Lead O/S
markfairbank 27/Oct/14 Lead dnf


with Anne Gumbley, Ray Sharples
afrosam 18/Oct/14 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Oct/14 Lead dnf
Bristoldave 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Didn't make the most of the rests- so pumped :). It can be cleaned from lead btw.

with eleri, Luke, Ali
Dan724 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Ely
Jon_Warner 22/May/14 Lead dnf

TooooOOooo tired. Next year.

with Tom Jordan, Jenni
Hidden 14/May/14 Lead O/S
buzby78 06/May/14 Lead rpt
with Jess
Hidden ?/May/14 2nd dog
Hidden 30/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Liam Ingram 28/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Nick Bryan
quiffhanger 27/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Pathological_Climber 27/Apr/14 Lead β
Hidden 26/Apr/14 2nd RP
Ian Broome 26/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Hard to grade, its climbing but not as you know it. Full on bar brawl, squirming underhand nonsense, unique. Felt pokey, should have exetended most of the runners, could only just clip the anchor.

Gus 24/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with sara whiteley
JamieSparkes 22/Apr/14 Lead dog

Miserable failure of an attempt. completely unpsyched and came off on the crux. Don't be fooled by the 40m nature of it, it only starts to get remotely overhanging or tricky about halfway up!

Hidden 08/Apr/14 Lead dog
Ri 06/Apr/14 Lead O/S
nickb1 ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Kyuzo ??/2014 -
Julie Carroll 29/Nov/13 Lead RP
with Dan Gibson
RFWilkie 21/Oct/13 Lead dog

Not a good warm up! Made a bit of a hash of it.

Michael Allday 21/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 17/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic. Draws already in

with Rod White
Hidden 15/Oct/13 Lead O/S
PeteH 04/Oct/13 Lead O/S

This is solid 7a after the stalactite fell off. Much harder than DNA, for example.

with Brian McAlinden
meribur ?/Oct/13 Lead β
Rich Kirby 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S


dswansonlow 14/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Shelly
adamjeffs 02/May/13 Lead O/S
Pippa 01/May/13 Lead dog


mountain_jay 01/May/13 2nd
martroberts 15/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant steep climbing! One of the routes of the trip

Mike Owen 11/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
matiamallia 05/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Tom Livingstone 05/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with JRAL
marky 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Repeat for warm up

with Sharon
Hidden 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Mat Welsh ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Long, pumpy, superb... maybe hard for the grade ?

with Emily J
Bargate_Champ 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
dan gibson 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
Fredrik Nyberg 26/Oct/12 Lead O/S
tommytuffa 25/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Libby, Felix
dannyboy83 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
dan ely 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with em
Steve Hillier 16/May/12 Lead dog
with Dave Rose
Hidden 16/May/12 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 16/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/12 Lead O/S
westyb3 03/May/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Harrison
Fran S8 07/Apr/12 Lead β
Hidden 02/Apr/12 TR O/S
thomasadixon 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
tom harrison ?/Apr/12 Lead
shark 26/Oct/11 Lead β

Had done 9 years ago

with Toby Foord-Kelcey
sam_cox 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/11 Lead O/S
keefe 13/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Liam FLeming 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with karen dalzell
Wayne.Gaudin 08/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Just didn't have the endurance. No hard moves, just too pumped to keep going

with Adrian Berry
mark_wellin ?/Oct/11 Lead β

Amazing! 7a

Ramon Marin 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with dave gary
fildac 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S
mux 17/Sep/11 Lead rpt
RdC 11/Sep/11 Lead RP

7a in guide book is about right.

wilsonmackenzie 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
ChrisCSC89 11/Sep/11 Lead β
with Nic, Ross, Wilson
fildac 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Ian Ash 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead
con321 26/Apr/11 Lead RP

fell first go came down rested and sent it second go 7a in the guide book :D

Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Billg 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert, James Kauntze, Alan Rosier
jgustafsson 08/Apr/11 TR RP

Failed onsight, embarrassingly mostly because I found it exposed and slightly run out. Did it fairly easily on toprope to clean it.

with Jen
AdrianP 10/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Riikka
Robbie_Phillips ?/Nov/10 -
cjsheps 29/Oct/10 Lead β
Milnes 21/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with Stacey
chris_j_s 20/Oct/10 Lead dog

Onsight attempt. Unfortunately made one mistake but climbed the rest without too much trouble. :-( What a route though, magnificent!

with Nicola Bishop
skygodley 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Just a fantastic route

with SarahM
Marti999 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
Glenn Sutcliffe 18/Oct/10 -
with Mike Waters
Russell Birkett 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S


with Tim Rankin
Hidden 15/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 30/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Quite pumpy...good kneebarring helps. Tricky move under the former tufa.

with Kaly 2010 posse
Greenman28 23/Sep/10 -
lanky_bastard 18/Sep/10 2nd dog
AlistairB 18/Sep/10 Lead β

Flashed having belayed Lisa on it, outrageously pumped at the top despite the many good rests.

with Lisa
Hidden 11/May/10 Lead O/S
stargazer85 ??/2010 -
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
TonyB 13/Nov/09 Lead RP

second go. Given 7a in the guidebook after the stalactite broke in 2007.

with Anni
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/09 Lead O/S
reapey ?/Oct/09 2nd

2nd to clean it for pete, steeper than it looks

with phil
Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead
DavidR 28/May/09 Lead O/S

Seconded (badly) 3 years ago, when the big stalactite was in place. On-sight lead (without the stalactite) on the same day as a clean lead of DNA. A great day!

Hidden 28/May/09 Lead O/S
nige pacer ?/May/09 Lead dog
marky 10/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Sharon
Sgt. Vest 03/Apr/09 Lead dog
jfreeman 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
simonr 29/Mar/09 Lead β
La Mont ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/08 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Since big stalagtite fell off we thought it was worth 7a,be careful to keep right as a 7b+ shares the same bolt(not in the guide!) then heads off left into hard ground.AS of October 09.

with peter and dean greenwood
Jon Garside ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/May/08 Lead O/S
odox ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead
Castleclimber ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S

The most beautiful route i've ever climbed!

with Marte Loefman
Hidden ??/2007 -
Richard Horn 20/Oct/06 Lead RP
Steve Crowe 03/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Before the big tufa broke.

with KM
Chad123 ?/Oct/06 2nd O/S

Awesome route through some impressive terrain, almost as exciting to second, good lead by the missis.....

with Emily
DavidR 13/Jun/06 2nd dog
Hidden 13/Jun/06 Lead O/S
gonzo_ls9 ?/Apr/06 Lead dog
with nol
Hidden ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Sep/05 -
with The Wife
Kev Little ??/2005 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 04/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with Nigel Baker
Hidden ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ?/Oct/98 Lead

Great climb. 60m rope just long enough!

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, chris_woodsy, rurp, raymondlinklater, RBonney, cjb1992, ChrisBrooke, lewiz, RFWilkie, Hidden, alias dave, UnkArl, trevor macalonan, MonkeyDawson, Hidden, HIGHTOWER, Hidden, SamStokes, AndyM-LVB
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 77
Votes cast 68
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set