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|Conwy > Castell y Gwynt >|
|Opal Moon|| E4 6a|
Teenage Kicks >>
|40m. Superb climbing which is well worth the approach. To get there, locate a nut belay about 10m right (looking out) of the bolts on the terrace above the crag. Abseil from here to small corner/cave which is about 10m left of Psychic Threshold.
35m. From the cave, move right to an arete (thread). Pull over the bulge on good holds to a bolt (the belay of Telegraph Road). Climb the wall above, first on the left then back right past 3 threads in a vague groove. Scramble off leftwards then back right to the abseil point. © ROCKFAX|
An exceptional route in a wild position, with some suspect rock in the lower half.
From a bolt belay 15m right(facing out) of the BB at the top of Appian Way a 35m abseil will get you to a small corner/cave and BB (there are bolts in Trade Winds that you can use to keep the rope in to reach the belay (steep crag!)).
Climb rightward across a hanging garden towards a good thread, then continue towards the arete and another thread (poor in-situ), steep moves upward lead to a bolt (poor). Continue up the wall above first trending left then back right till you reach a vague groove. Climb this passing three threads (poor in-situ, first can be threaded easily with a sling) until the angle eases. Above you will find steep grass and rock, ascend this carefully until you reach a belay
D Lyon, D Summerfield 03/Aug/1986
Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.
This climb is in 8 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.
jamesturnbull - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/13 with mike
Another amazing pitch... Pretty wild for the orme
willoates - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/13 with Will Sim
LRob - Lead - 2012
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
not totally sure what line we climbed, it was good though.
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10 with blair fyffe
Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09
Steve Crowe - 2nd - 08/Aug/98 with KM
Users with this climb on their wishlist are: