|Opal Moon||E4 6a|
|40m. Superb climbing which is well worth the approach. To get there, locate a nut belay about 10m right (looking out) of the bolts on the terrace above the crag. Abseil from here to small corner/cave which is about 10m left of Psychic Threshold.
35m. From the cave, move right to an arete (thread). Pull over the bulge on good holds to a bolt (the belay of Telegraph Road). Climb the wall above, first on the left then back right past 3 threads in a vague groove. Scramble off leftwards then back right to the abseil point. © ROCKFAX|
An exceptional route in a wild position, with some suspect rock in the lower half. From a bolt belay 15m right(facing out) of the BB at the top of Appian Way a 35m abseil will get you to a small corner/cave and BB (there are bolts in Trade Winds that you can use to keep the rope in to reach the belay (steep crag!)). Climb rightward across a hanging garden towards a good thread, then continue towards the arete and another thread (poor in-situ), steep moves upward lead to a bolt (poor). Continue up the wall above first trending left then back right till you reach a vague groove. Climb this passing three threads (poor in-situ, first can be threaded easily with a sling) until the angle eases. Above you will find steep grass and rock, ascend this carefully until you reach a belay
D Lyon, D Summerfield 03/Aug/1986
Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.