|Dark Matters||E3 6a|
|55m, 2 pitches. Start as for shadow wall, and do the first few hard moves (very small rp). Then continue right wards towards a fascinating undercut shelf that is past the large crack. Go straight into the undercut pressing upwards with our palms to keep you in (another small rp in the cracked bun-like rock). The next hard move is to reach for a rightward sloping crimp (amazing!). From here climb up towards a tree that is a little worse for wear (but well worth slinging esp. for the seconds safety). Move right wards again first on crimps then on a beautiful example of Lake District slopers and you will be rewarded with a friend size one in the crack on the right above you. Make your way over to the little ledge on the far right and make a belay from the obvious cracks on the left. Total 27m ish
Second pitch varies in character completely. Climb up the cracks to reach very incut crimps on the left, from here make a big ish move to the cracks top with a good hold. The hanging slab has a wonderfully firm hold protruding from its furththest point use this and another fine lakes sloper to gain little crimps high in the hanging slab. Continue up the deceptive slab that does not yield much in the way of protection. Fortunately this isnít long and the use of trees is usually possible. The belay is best using the big oak tree past the ants nest. Total 15-20m ish
Decent ab off the belay tree easiest. going up is possible but a pain (think brown slab) or use the anchors that Mike P put in for the top of shadow wall, but that is a bit of a pain to get to too.
When i did the first accent i didnít clean the second pitch so i took a brush on my harness and scrubbed as i went. I had no idea how hard it was going to be but i am totally convinced that it is very safe. Mike Meaney wants it to be clear that he only seconded the first pitch and had a dam good go at the second (might be E4?)
I intend to do the climb in one pitch at some point when i do i will try and get some pictures.
Harry McGhie 08/Oct/2010