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|Conwy > Castell y Gwynt >|
|Psychic Threshold|| E5 6b|
<< Teenage Kicks
|40m. Another one of the original lines of the wall which takes on the continuosly overhanging prow of the buttress.
40m. Start by a short arete leading to a small cave. Start up rightwards then move back left onto the arete which leads to the cave (possible stance but not recommended). Climb right through the roof (2 slings and a bolt) then move up to another thread. Take a breather. Move up left to some pockets which lead to a niche (thread). Pull over the bulge on the right then make a hard move up left to another sling. Gain the thin crack above and follow it (thread) to the break of Appian Way. Climb the wall above trending left to an easy finishing groove. © ROCKFAX|
Fa (2pts aid) R.Edwards, P.Williams 3.8.77. Aid reduced to 1 pt by J.Redhead, K.Robertson. FFA K.Carrigan, D.Hall May 81.
Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.
This climb is in 9 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
LRob - Lead - 2012
One cheeky pull of the tat through the crux. Good for the grade and an awesome route. watch the top-out!
Tom Livingstone - 2nd dog - 22/Aug/11
Awesome. Had a little bit of beta from Lee but still felt like an onsight. Awesome pockety climbing. Hard section over inital roof, and another over bulge above the wide crack. The long tat to clip pre-crux had blown out fo the way and took a few up-and-downs to get it clipped.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Tom Livingstone
Boy - Lead - 06/Aug/11 with Ed Brown
Brilliant. Thoroughly enjoyed the brand new threads but with miniscule spectra slings carried by everyone shouldn't we be thinking about threading our own? Would transform this route into a true behemouth.
edinbed - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11
Rob Pitt - 2nd - 03/Aug/11 with Lee Roberts
ground-up, 1 fall
switch - Lead - 2001
Hidden - Lead β - 03/Sep/89
Mike Owen - 11/Sep/82 with Pete Chadwick