New Dimensions*** E4 6a
37m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic and varied route, with a pumpy first pitch that leads to a stunning climax in the upper groove. Start to the left of a grotty pillar, by a small cave.
1) 5c, 22m. Climb the awkward crack out of the cave and step right onto the wall above a thread. Go up to a roof (peg) then right again and up a bulging groove. Move right to the foot of another groove and climb this moving left at the top to a stance. Bolt belay.
2) 6a,15m. Move left to the black groove and climb it past a bolt. At the break traverse right to a belay. Abseil off or...
3) 5b,10m. Move up left into a corner then up to a peg. Move left again and finish direct. Belay well back. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
One of the finest routes of its grade in the country - sustained and spectacular, building in to a stunning climax in the upper groove. Start to the left of a grotty pillar, by a small cave.

FA (aid) R.Edwards, N.Metcalf, T.Jepson 11.10.75. Ayear later J.Moran andP.Williams freed the 2nd pitch after using 1pt aid on the 1st. R.Edwards free ascent shortly after. Moran used chalk, this was such an issue that some considered the ascent invalid.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs.

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This climb is in 56 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/15

JM - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/15 with Steve Sylvester

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/15 with alice thompson

Fell seconding the start bit. Lead second!
Ewan Russell - AltLd - 11/Jul/15 with Brad

breed - AltLd - 11/Jul/15

Led P1
Tom Livingstone - Lead rpt - 24/Aug/14 with Tony Stone

Rob led on one big pitch. Bridging isn't my forte.
nathanlee - 2nd β - 27/Jun/14 with Rob Greenwood

Led in a single pitch, definitely the way to do it these days - get to the 'Mini Finish' then abseil off. Mega.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/14 with Nathan Lee

Tried to lead the first pitch but didn't want to commit so tim did it then I just lead the last one. Cool climb but pretty hard!
Rachel Slater - AltLd RP - 21/Jun/14 with Tim Newton

Rachel got half way up pitch 1 but came down, so I pulled the ropes and tried it, but fell off low down because of a silly slip, lowered back down to the ground and then lead pitch 1 clean second go. I also lead pitch 2 which I found hard, but absolutely brilliant. Rachel lead pitch 3. A really great route
tim newton - Lead G/U - 21/Jun/14 with rachel slater

Outstanding route - but be aware that the fixed gear is in a poor state with the exception of the belays and the one shiny stainless staple on P2. The rest of it is rotting stumps which do little more than mark the way. Strictly space-walking!
dominic o - Lead - 14/Jun/14

Nick Biven - 2014

jamesturnbull - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/13 with mike

I did pitch 1, which has some hard climbing at the start (of say hard 5c, maybe 6a). will did pitch 2 which was amazing... One of the best bits of climbing I have done for A while, it's a shame it isn't longer.
willoates - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/13 with Will Sim

Just P1. Ollie put in a good effort up to small roof but wasn't in the right head space after hard week at work. Que the unfit punter who just managed to get his way to the belay riding a wave of lactic!! On arriving at the belay Ollie wasn't mega keen for P2 and with Team Alpha on Appian Way at the belay I'd be heading to it gave me a good excuse to bail. Gotta go back. Very sustained. Threw a heel on at one point!
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Ollie Cain

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/12 with Sophie

soph - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/12 with Luke brooks

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2012

LRob - Lead - 2012

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11 with Dougie Hall

Led P1. Both great (f6c) pitches, but the top of the groove on P2 is amazing. Did the mini finish too which is cool, probably 5c.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Tom Livingstone

Led P2
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Alex Mason

Boy - Lead - 06/Aug/11 with Ed Brown

With Jon Fullwood. Totally justifies its inclusion.
edinbed - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/11

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/11 with Lee Roberts

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Steve Crowe - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

middlevern - 2nd - 09/Aug/09 with Toby Dunn

Toby Dunn - Lead - 09/Aug/09 with Nick Verney

Ace! Very satisfying as it drizzled all day - back of the net!
Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Nige

Two great pitches. New staple at the belay between p1 and p2, another halfway up the groove on P2.
switch - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/08

Mark Riley - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/08 with Simon Witcher

jeffmcd56 - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Wez

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 15/Sep/07

Brown - AltLd - 08/Sep/07 with Max

Bern - 2006

sharpie - AltLd O/S - Oct/98 with PL

sadams - AltLd - 17/Aug/96 with John Boyle

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/96 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/96 with mik

innes - Lead O/S - 1996 with Craig

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Roget - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/94 with jon

richparry - 1992

Hidden - Lead dnf - 1990

keefe - 1990

Hidden - 2nd β - 03/Sep/89

A cold and breezy day, a complete contrast to the day before on Hunger.
Bob - 2nd O/S - 30/May/89 with D. Lampard, al phizacklea

shark - Lead - 1988

Hidden - AltLd - 1988

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/79 with John Roberts

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ramon Marin, wi11, Ian Jones, tim exley, stp, Mike Goldthorp, Dan_Carroll

Total votes cast 32
hard E50 of 11
E50 of 11
easy E50 of 11
hard E44 of 11
E46 of 11
easy E41 of 11
hard E30 of 11
E30 of 11
easy E30 of 11
hard 6b0 of 10
6b0 of 10
easy 6b0 of 10
hard 6a3 of 10
6a7 of 10
easy 6a0 of 10
hard 5c0 of 10
5c0 of 10
easy 5c0 of 10
3 Stars11 of 11
2 Stars0 of 11
1 Star0 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP