A fantastic and varied route, with a pumpy first pitch that leads to a stunning climax in the upper groove. Start to the left of a grotty pillar, by a small cave.
1) 5c, 22m. Climb the awkward crack out of the cave and step right onto the wall above a thread. Go up to a roof (peg) then right again and up a bulging groove. Move right to the foot of another groove and climb this moving left at the top to a stance. Bolt belay.
2) 6a,15m. Move left to the black groove and climb it past a bolt. At the break traverse right to a belay. Abseil off or...
3) 5b,10m. Move up left into a corner then up to a peg. Move left again and finish direct. Belay well back. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
One of the finest routes of its grade in the country - sustained and spectacular, building in to a stunning climax in the upper groove. Start to the left of a grotty pillar, by a small cave.
FA (aid) R.Edwards, N.Metcalf, T.Jepson 11.10.75. Ayear later J.Moran andP.Williams freed the 2nd pitch after using 1pt aid on the 1st. R.Edwards free ascent shortly after. Moran used chalk, this was such an issue that some considered the ascent invalid.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Led pitch 2. Unexpectedly brilliant crag and route, thought the approach would be much more difficult than it was.
|dan gibson||12/Aug||AltLd O/S||
On pre-placed gear
On pre-placed gear
Fell seconding the start bit. Lead second!
|Tom Livingstone||24/Aug/14||Lead rpt||
Rob led on one big pitch. Bridging isn't my forte.
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||27/Jun/14||Lead O/S||
Led in a single pitch, definitely the way to do it these days - get to the 'Mini Finish' then abseil off. Mega.
|Rachel Slater||21/Jun/14||AltLd RP||
Tried to lead the first pitch but didn't want to commit so tim did it then I just lead the last one. Cool climb but pretty hard!
|tim newton||21/Jun/14||Lead G/U||
Rachel got half way up pitch 1 but came down, so I pulled the ropes and tried it, but fell off low down because of a silly slip, lowered back down to the ground and then lead pitch 1 clean second go. I also lead pitch 2 which I found hard, but absolutely brilliant. Rachel lead pitch 3. A really great route
Outstanding route - but be aware that the fixed gear is in a poor state with the exception of the belays and the one shiny stainless staple on P2. The rest of it is rotting stumps which do little more than mark the way. Strictly space-walking!
I did pitch 1, which has some hard climbing at the start (of say hard 5c, maybe 6a). will did pitch 2 which was amazing... One of the best bits of climbing I have done for A while, it's a shame it isn't longer.
|Duncan Campbell||29/Jun/13||Lead O/S||
Just P1. Ollie put in a good effort up to small roof but wasn't in the right head space after hard week at work. Que the unfit punter who just managed to get his way to the belay riding a wave of lactic!! On arriving at the belay Ollie wasn't mega keen for P2 and with Team Alpha on Appian Way at the belay I'd be heading to it gave me a good excuse to bail. Gotta go back. Very sustained. Threw a heel on at one point!
|Luke Brooks||16/Aug/12||AltLd O/S||
|Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor||??/2012||-|
|Alex Mason||22/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
Led P1. Both great (f6c) pitches, but the top of the groove on P2 is amazing. Did the mini finish too which is cool, probably 5c.
|Tom Livingstone||22/Aug/11||AltLd O/S||
With Jon Fullwood. Totally justifies its inclusion.
|Rob Pitt||03/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
|Rich Kirby||21/Jun/09||AltLd O/S||
Ace! Very satisfying as it drizzled all day - back of the net!
Two great pitches. New staple at the belay between p1 and p2, another halfway up the groove on P2.
|Mark Riley||26/Jul/08||AltLd O/S|
A cold and breezy day, a complete contrast to the day before on Hunger.
D. Lampard, al phizacklea
|William Robertson||??/1987||Lead O/S||
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
|Mike Owen||29/Aug/79||Lead O/S||