37m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic and varied route, with a pumpy first pitch that leads to a stunning climax in the upper groove. Start to the left of a grotty pillar, by a small cave.
1) 5c, 22m. Climb the awkward crack out of the cave and step right onto the wall above a thread. Go up to a roof (peg) then right again and up a bulging groove. Move right to the foot of another groove and climb this moving left at the top to a stance. Bolt belay.
2) 6a,15m. Move left to the black groove and climb it past a bolt. At the break traverse right to a belay. Abseil off or...
3) 5b,10m. Move up left into a corner then up to a peg. Move left again and finish direct. Belay well back. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of the finest routes of its grade in the country - sustained and spectacular, building in to a stunning climax in the upper groove. Start to the left of a grotty pillar, by a small cave.

FA (aid) R.Edwards, N.Metcalf, T.Jepson 11.10.75. Ayear later J.Moran andP.Williams freed the 2nd pitch after using 1pt aid on the 1st. R.Edwards free ascent shortly after. Moran used chalk, this was such an issue that some considered the ascent invalid.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Dan724 08/Sep AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. Unexpectedly brilliant crag and route, thought the approach would be much more difficult than it was.

Jack Lawledge
Hidden 25/Aug AltLd O/S
JM 22/Aug Lead O/S
Steve Sylvester
dan gibson 12/Aug AltLd O/S
alice thompson
dswansonlow 01/Aug Lead β

On pre-placed gear

Mike G
dswansonlow 01/Aug Lead β

On pre-placed gear

Mike G
Ian craigie ?/Aug AltLd
Dave Rudkin
Ewan Russell 11/Jul AltLd

Fell seconding the start bit. Lead second!

breed 11/Jul AltLd
Tom Livingstone 24/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Led P1

nathanlee 27/Jun/14 2nd β

Rob led on one big pitch. Bridging isn't my forte.

Rob Greenwood
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 27/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Led in a single pitch, definitely the way to do it these days - get to the 'Mini Finish' then abseil off. Mega.

Rachel Slater 21/Jun/14 AltLd RP

Tried to lead the first pitch but didn't want to commit so tim did it then I just lead the last one. Cool climb but pretty hard!

tim newton 21/Jun/14 Lead G/U

Rachel got half way up pitch 1 but came down, so I pulled the ropes and tried it, but fell off low down because of a silly slip, lowered back down to the ground and then lead pitch 1 clean second go. I also lead pitch 2 which I found hard, but absolutely brilliant. Rachel lead pitch 3. A really great route

dominic o 14/Jun/14 Lead

Outstanding route - but be aware that the fixed gear is in a poor state with the exception of the belays and the one shiny stainless staple on P2. The rest of it is rotting stumps which do little more than mark the way. Strictly space-walking!

Nick Biven ??/2014 -
jamesturnbull 28/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
willoates 28/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

I did pitch 1, which has some hard climbing at the start (of say hard 5c, maybe 6a). will did pitch 2 which was amazing... One of the best bits of climbing I have done for A while, it's a shame it isn't longer.

Will Sim
Duncan Campbell 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Just P1. Ollie put in a good effort up to small roof but wasn't in the right head space after hard week at work. Que the unfit punter who just managed to get his way to the belay riding a wave of lactic!! On arriving at the belay Ollie wasn't mega keen for P2 and with Team Alpha on Appian Way at the belay I'd be heading to it gave me a good excuse to bail. Gotta go back. Very sustained. Threw a heel on at one point!

Ollie Cain
Luke Brooks 16/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
soph 16/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2012 -
LRob ??/2012 Lead
gregoritos 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S


Dougie Hall
Alex Mason 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led P1. Both great (f6c) pitches, but the top of the groove on P2 is amazing. Did the mini finish too which is cool, probably 5c.

Tom Livingstone 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2

Boy 06/Aug/11 Lead
Ed Brown
edinbed 06/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

With Jon Fullwood. Totally justifies its inclusion.

Hidden 04/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Lee Roberts
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Steve Crowe ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
middlevern 09/Aug/09 2nd
Toby Dunn 09/Aug/09 Lead
Nick Verney
Rich Kirby 21/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Ace! Very satisfying as it drizzled all day - back of the net!

switch 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Two great pitches. New staple at the belay between p1 and p2, another halfway up the groove on P2.

Mark Riley 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
jeffmcd56 ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/07 AltLd rpt
Brown 08/Sep/07 AltLd
Bern ??/2006 -
sharpie ?/Oct/98 AltLd O/S
sadams 17/Aug/96 AltLd
John Boyle
mikedelderfield 10/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
ste_d 01/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
innes ??/1996 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
Roget 09/Jul/94 Lead O/S
richparry ??/1992 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead dnf
keefe ??/1990 -
Hidden 03/Sep/89 2nd β
Bob 30/May/89 2nd O/S

A cold and breezy day, a complete contrast to the day before on Hunger.

D. Lampard, al phizacklea
shark ??/1988 Lead
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Mike Owen 29/Aug/79 Lead O/S
John Roberts
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 12
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set