Rockfax Description
A superb direct line improving on a few old attempts up this same bit of rock. Climb up then pull leftwards into a groove which is followed to the main break (rest). Continue direct up the upper groove to a lower-off below the break. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Originally a trad E5 6b with mixed gear, an extra 3 bolts and a lower off make this now a fully bolted route (as of 2011), to make a brilliant 7b Start direct, via a hard move to gain the break. The previous loose shield of rock at half height is now gone. A 10m 2nd pitch finishes to the top of the crag, but it is normal to lower/ab from the bolts just above the roof.

D. Lyon, D. Summerfield, P. Freeman. 1987 Much of the top section had been originally climbed 10yr earlier as part of Alternative Three including the alternative finish

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales Limestone Sport 7s.

Dan724 13/Sep Lead G/U

Second go. Fell off just before the last bolt on the first try; went for a tick-mark which didn't lead anywhere. Much easier second time round!

Luke Owens 30/Aug Lead RP

Psyched to get this done in less than ideal conditions. Amazing line with so many good flowing moves!

Adam Lincoln 21/Aug Lead RP

Ming on first go up. Easy on second go.

with Mick Lovatt
dan gibson 12/Aug Lead β
with alice thompson
Dave Bond 11/Aug Lead G/U
with Simon Wren
soph 09/Aug Lead RP
with Tony Stone
Hidden 06/Aug Lead RP
Hidden 21/Jul Lead RP
Hidden 21/Jul TR dog
breed 11/Jul Lead O/S

Clips in and well chalked/ticked. Great route.

Luke Owens 11/Jul Lead dog

Not enough time for a proper go, should go next session. One of the best routes I've been on anywhere!

valecoastclimber 21/May Lead rpt

Heckled from the seal below, showed him who's boss, sploosh!

dswansonlow 02/Sep/14 Lead RP
shed_hed 02/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Put the clips in for Dougie. Felt much easier when I knew what was coming!

dswansonlow 01/Sep/14 Lead dog

Mega frustrating... 1st go - got to the low crux and hung, and then again at the top bulge. 2nd go - Climbed well but then on very last move I snagged my thumb through the draw as I threw up to the jug, got tangled and ended up just holding the draw. Grrrr. Hard route made harder because I can't use any of the holds in the crack at the top because of my banana fingers. It felt to me like a sustained and solid 7b.

shed_hed 01/Sep/14 Lead RP

The move off the floor was tricky and got very pumped. Made it to the fourth bolt before coming off. Got back on and got to the top clean. Worked the move I fell off and then got it clean first red point attempt. Felt really hard to try and onsight but once I knew what was coming it suited me as it's very sustained rather than bouldery. I took wires and could be used if really wanted but I didn't use them. Bolts are a bit more spaced further up but certainly not dangerous. 7b to onsight.

Hidden 19/Aug/14 Lead β
LRob 19/Aug/14 Lead β
Glyn 26/Jun/14 Lead β
with James Taylor
Luke Brooks 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Sophie
LRob ??/2012 Lead
gregoritos 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S


with Dougie Hall
Tom Livingstone 22/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Alex Mason 17/Aug/11 Lead β

Hard 7b imo. As hard as HS but more sustained, although initial crux move is probably harder than anything on HS. Tried a fortnight ago but dropped it at 3rd bolt after getting pumped on the slopers in bad conditions, G-up. Got really pumped in technical, top groove, got the top draw in, but had to push past it as was so pumped even on big jug.

JM 16/Aug/11 Lead β

Very good!

with Dave Pinnington
Hidden 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
edinbed 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Cave
ksjs 20/Apr/11 Lead RP

Very good indeed! Felt as hard as H Sign and bit spooky in upper half, big section of rock at half height that is hollow and being on a wire didn't help. Weird that this is so different in character from H Sign yet only a few metres right. Definitely not E5, easily done at 7a+/7b without wires (though worth taking them). I struggled briefly with tufa during onsight and fell then had a few gos to get something workable to get established in the upper groove. Done next go, tired arms at the end :)

with pete
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Apr/11 Lead RP

Soft 7b and a good contrast to Hidden Sign.

zero six ?/Apr/11 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
switch ??/2001 2nd β
shark 18/Jul/92 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 13/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Luke Owens, wi11, Hidden, stp, eugeneth, Tom Livingstone, Mike Goldthorp
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set