Cruella Deville*** 7b

Rockfax Description
A superb direct line improving on a few old attempts up this same bit of rock. Climb up then pull leftwards into a groove which is followed to the main break (rest). Continue direct up the upper groove to a lower-off below the break. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Originally a trad E5 6b with mixed gear, an extra 3 bolts and a lower off make this now a fully bolted route (as of 2011), to make a brilliant 7b Start direct, via a hard move to gain the break. The previous loose shield of rock at half height is now gone. A 10m 2nd pitch finishes to the top of the crag, but it is normal to lower/ab from the bolts just above the roof.

D. Lyon, D. Summerfield, P. Freeman. 1987 Much of the top section had been originally climbed 10yr earlier as part of Alternative Three including the alternative finish

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales Limestone Sport 7s.

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This climb is in 36 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Second go. Fell off just before the last bolt on the first try, going for what I thought was a jug but turned out not to be anything. Much easier second time round!
Dan724 - Lead G/U - 13/Sep/15 with Brad Reed

Psyched to get this done in less than ideal conditions. Amazing line with so many good flowing moves!
Luke Owens - Lead RP - 30/Aug/15 with Alex Gray

Ming on first go up. Easy on second go.
Adam Lincoln - Lead RP - 21/Aug/15 with Mick Lovatt

dan gibson - Lead β - 12/Aug/15 with alice thompson

Dave Bond - Lead G/U - 11/Aug/15 with Simon Wren

soph - Lead RP - 09/Aug/15 with Tony Stone

Hidden - Lead RP - 06/Aug/15

Hidden - Lead RP - 21/Jul/15

Hidden - TR dog - 21/Jul/15

Clips in and well chalked/ticked. Great route.
breed - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/15

Not enough time for a proper go, should go next session. One of the best routes I've been on anywhere!
Luke Owens - Lead dog - 11/Jul/15 with Alex Gray

Heckled from the seal below, showed him who's boss, sploosh!
valecoastclimber - Lead rpt - 21/May/15

dswansonlow - Lead RP - 02/Sep/14 with TC, Darren McMaster

Put the clips in for Dougie. Felt much easier when I knew what was coming!
shed_hed - Lead rpt - 02/Sep/14 with TC, Dougie Swanson-Low

Mega frustrating... 1st go - got to the low crux and hung, and then again at the top bulge. 2nd go - Climbed well but then on very last move I snagged my thumb through the draw as I threw up to the jug, got tangled and ended up just holding the draw. Grrrr. Hard route made harder because I can't use any of the holds in the crack at the top because of my banana fingers. It felt to me like a sustained and solid 7b.
dswansonlow - Lead dog - 01/Sep/14 with TC, Darren McMaster

The move off the floor was tricky and got very pumped. Made it to the fourth bolt before coming off. Got back on and got to the top clean. Worked the move I fell off and then got it clean first red point attempt. Felt really hard to try and onsight but once I knew what was coming it suited me as it's very sustained rather than bouldery. I took wires and could be used if really wanted but I didn't use them. Bolts are a bit more spaced further up but certainly not dangerous. 7b to onsight.
shed_hed - Lead RP - 01/Sep/14 with TC, Dougie Swanson-Low

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Aug/14

LRob - Lead β - 19/Aug/14

Glyn - Lead β - 26/Jun/14 with James Taylor

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/12 with Sophie

LRob - Lead - 2012

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11 with Dougie Hall

Tom Livingstone - Lead dnf - 22/Aug/11 with Alex Mason

Hard 7b imo. As hard as HS but more sustained, although initial crux move is probably harder than anything on HS. Tried a fortnight ago but dropped it at 3rd bolt after getting pumped on the slopers in bad conditions, G-up. Got really pumped in technical, top groove, got the top draw in, but had to push past it as was so pumped even on big jug.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 17/Aug/11 with Andy Schofield

Very good!
JM - Lead β - 16/Aug/11 with Dave Pinnington

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11

edinbed - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Andy Cave

Very good indeed! Felt as hard as H Sign and bit spooky in upper half, big section of rock at half height that is hollow and being on a wire didn't help. Weird that this is so different in character from H Sign yet only a few metres right. Definitely not E5, easily done at 7a+/7b without wires (though worth taking them). I struggled briefly with tufa during onsight and fell then had a few gos to get something workable to get established in the upper groove. Done next go, tired arms at the end :)
ksjs - Lead RP - 20/Apr/11 with pete

Soft 7b and a good contrast to Hidden Sign.
halfmanhalfbiscuit - Lead RP - Apr/11

zero six - Lead RP - Apr/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

switch - 2nd β - 2001

shark - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/92 with Derek Toulalan

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/92 with Elaine Owen

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Luke Owens, wi11, stp, eugeneth, Tom Livingstone, Mike Goldthorp

Total votes cast 27
hard 7b+0 of 14
7b+0 of 14
easy 7b+0 of 14
hard 7b2 of 14
7b4 of 14
easy 7b7 of 14
hard 7a+1 of 14
7a+0 of 14
easy 7a+0 of 14
3 Stars10 of 13
2 Stars3 of 13
1 Star0 of 13
0 Stars0 of 13
Bag of .....0 of 13
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP