Conwy > Castell y Gwynt >
Cruella Deville*** 7a+

Adjacent Climbs
<< Alternative Three
The Exile >>
40m, 2 pitches. Originally a trad E5 6b with mixed gear, an extra 3 bolts and a lower off make this now a fully bolted route (as of 2011), to make a brilliant but hard 7a+. Start direct, via a hard move to gain the break. The previous loose shield of rock at half height is now gone. A 10m 2nd pitch finishes to the top of the crag, but it is normal to lower/ab from the bolts just above the roof.
D. Lyon, D. Summerfield, P. Freeman. 1987 Much of the top section had been originally climbed 10yr earlier as part of Alternative Three including the alternative finish

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

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This climb is in 20 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Aug/14

LRob - Lead β - 19/Aug/14

Glyn - Lead β - 26/Jun/14 with James Taylor

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/12 with Sophie

LRob - Lead - 2012

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11 with Dougie Hall

Tom Livingstone - Lead dnf - 22/Aug/11 with Alex Mason

Hard 7b imo. As hard as HS but more sustained, although initial crux move is probably harder than anything on HS. Tried a fortnight ago but dropped it at 3rd bolt after getting pumped on the slopers in bad conditions, G-up. Got really pumped in technical, top groove, got the top draw in, but had to push past it as was so pumped even on big jug.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 17/Aug/11 with Andy Schofield

Very good!
JM - Lead β - 16/Aug/11 with Dave Pinnington

Bit stiff as a warm-up! Might be a soft 7b in it's new sport form?
Ally Smith - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Pete H

edinbed - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Andy Cave

Very good indeed! Felt as hard as H Sign and bit spooky in upper half, big section of rock at half height that is hollow and being on a wire didn't help. Weird that this is so different in character from H Sign yet only a few metres right. Definitely not E5, easily done at 7a+/7b without wires (though worth taking them). I struggled briefly with tufa during onsight and fell then had a few gos to get something workable to get established in the upper groove. Done next go, tired arms at the end :)
ksjs - Lead RP - 20/Apr/11 with pete

Soft 7b and a good contrast to Hidden Sign.
halfmanhalfbiscuit - Lead RP - Apr/11

zero six - Lead RP - Apr/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

switch - 2nd β - 2001

shark - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/92 with Derek Toulalan

Mike Owen - 13/Jun/92 with Elaine Owen

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, stp, eugeneth, Tom Livingstone, Mike Goldthorp

Total votes cast 16
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