8m. A difficult testpiece. The narrow v chimney left of Square Chimney is hard to enter from below.

First ascent details unclear, possibly Dolphin, Varley and Cook. 1942

Ticklists: The Complete Dolphin Collection, ARD Yorkshire Grit.

Climbster 25/Oct Solo G/U

3 goes to get the start, then steady away.

with Vick
edinbed 14/Oct Sent rpt
bomtall 11/Oct Lead G/U
bomtall 11/Oct Solo
Teappleby 10/Aug Solo
with max
nick ferro 22/Jul 2nd rpt
with Oli Birkill
Hidden 27/Jun Solo
Steve Andrews 30/May 2nd β

Bouldering style hard start but finishes out fairly easy

Joshcastril 28/May Solo
KieranFallows 28/May Solo G/U
Hidden 21/May Lead O/S
nick ferro 22/Mar TR O/S
with Oli Birkill
Stroppy 15/Mar Sent x
RKirke 28/Sep/14 Solo RP
with Alex T
stickonthewall 11/Sep/14 Lead RP
scarmichael ?/Aug/14 Lead β

once you nail the starting move its a straightforward finish

Mike Todd 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S

All over after the first move, good though.

Hidden 03/Jul/14 Solo O/S
CragDog 20/Jun/14 Solo O/S
oread 14/Jun/14 Solo β
MarkRoe 14/May/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/May/14 Solo O/S
Hollywood 11/Mar/14 2nd
with karly54
Hidden 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S
robertmctague ??/2014 Sent
theomoore ??/2014 Solo
petekeron 13/Oct/13 Solo O/S
with Solo
Calum Wadsworth 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Harrogate club
LeeBarnes ??/2013 TR
Dickon151 18/Dec/12 Solo O/S
efrance24234 22/Nov/12 Solo β


GrantB 03/Jul/12 2nd
with James
jkarran 03/Jul/12 Lead

2nd go and by feet-off brute force. Ugly!

with Grant
akhughes 10/Jun/12 Solo O/S
Steve Dunne ?/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd dnf
masa-alpin 12/May/12 Lead O/S

I placed a nut in the crucial finger slot below the crux, hence could not use it and it must have made the move harder. Nevertheless after climbing down and having a rest a few times, I managed the move cleanly. Pleased!

with Claudia
Hidden 15/Jul/11 Solo
Hidden 17/Jun/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 12/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 15/Nov/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 17/Sep/10 Sent
clive-greenwood 21/Jun/10 Lead β
with Anna
Hidden 27/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/10 2nd β
Hidden 27/May/10 2nd O/S
robin_hackney 23/May/10 Lead RP

A tough start that you really need to commit to. Once you have passed the crux low down, the route is very steady and well protected.

Dave Foster 23/May/10 2nd O/S

Bouldery start, satisfying route.

with Robin
simon kimber 01/May/10 Solo O/S
Ewan Russell 11/Nov/09 Sent x

Tried to lead it at the start of the day didn't happen, came back later on and after seeing ralph doing it got the hang of it. Then soloed whiskey crack to finish

with Ralph, one hand mat, Lubos
AlistairB 27/Jul/09 Solo RP

Quality burly problem, irritatingly blew the onsight by failing to commit with the feet.

Hidden 11/Mar/09 Solo rpt
Nicos 24/Jan/09 Solo O/S
with ryan
Hidden 18/Nov/08 Solo
Jack00 25/May/08 Lead

Got it 3rd or 4th time. Powerful.

with Steve Kirkup
Will Hunt 17/May/08 Lead RP

Got it sorted today. Up the rib.

with David Smith
Hidden 16/May/08 2nd dog
Will Hunt 23/Feb/08 Lead dnf

Absolutely nails. Fell off loads and couldnt stick the move, was very unimpressed with myself. Later used the chimney at 5b. Sean says a heel placement is crucial so will get it next time.

with Sean Jacobs
timbo58 06/Oct/07 TR
reg_measures 15/Aug/07 Solo RP
robman 13/Oct/06 Lead O/S

took the chimney start 5b

Luke Brooks 02/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Rich Payne
Hidden 19/Jul/06 2nd
Hidden 24/May/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/May/06 Lead rpt
clive-greenwood ??/2006 TR
with Owen Sudlow
antroy 25/Apr/04 Lead
Brown 29/Mar/04 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Matt Rowat 11/Dec/02 Lead O/S
Roget 11/May/02 Solo O/S
pezzerrr 30/Apr/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/02 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Sent
Jonathan Richardson ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/99 Lead RP
chrishedgehog 14/May/98 Lead O/S
with Dan Bailey
bobboulderer ?/Nov/95 Lead RP
with Chris Jackson Jones
rob.grafton ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1992 -
Hidden ??/1992 Solo
Dave Musgrove Jnr 22/May/90 Solo
with Dad
Dave Musgrove 22/May/90 Solo
with David
Jon Read ??/1990 Lead RP
with Ian Ransome
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Pete Pozman 13/Sep/89 Lead O/S

Graded VS 4c at the time

with Pete Atkinson
PaulHermes ??/1989 -
Hidden ??/1988 Solo O/S
craig h 28/Feb/87 Solo O/S
charlesmfrench 27/Feb/82 2nd O/S
with Ian Milne
Hidden 03/Jun/79 Lead
Hidden 31/Mar/75 Lead
Dave Musgrove ??/1975 Solo
Hidden ??/1968 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
betamonkey, Hidden, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 8
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set