Conwy > Castell y Gwynt >
 
Appian Way*** E2 5c

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[Matty Lamb on Pitch 3, 2 kb]The original girdle which follows the break below the top roof. Good protection and amazing positions make this a great expedition. Start as for Demos. 1) 5a 20m. As for Demos. 2) 5a 15m. Move up onto an arete on the left. Follow this then step left onto the wall and move up to the break. Follow it leftwards to the New Dimensions belay. 3) 5b 22m. Continue traversing left to a wide recess and big thread. Then descend 5m to a bolt belay on the lower break. 4) 5c 27m. Move left to a scoop then follow a break to the arete. Go left again to a short wall and finish up leftwards. 4a) Watling Street - 5c 27m. Move back up to the big thread then continue traversing the break leftwards. © ROCKFAX
R.Edwards, G.Perry. Watling Street variation R.Edwards, F.Smithh 3.77

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: Matty Lamb on Pitch 3 © spidey
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 36 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

In 2 pitches. Led trav. Fun.
Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Tim Neil, Nick Bullock

lead P2 and P4, awesome adventure. 3 hours
spidey - AltLd - 10/Jul/14 with mat lamb

P1 and 3. Ace route!
Mattlamb90 - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/14 with Ryan

Nick Biven - 2014

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 20/Sep/13 with Doddy

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Aug/13

jamesturnbull - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/13 with mike

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Sep/12

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Sophie

soph - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Luke brooks

An awesome adventure across a pretty imposing crag. Discovered small fossils in the rock on the first two pitches. The traverse pitches are great and pumpy. Really good climbing throughout
Duncan Campbell - UKC - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/12 with Ben Reinsch

Awesome route, a real adventure!!
Bennykr - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/12 with Duncan

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

LRob - Lead - 2012

Liam FLeming - 17/Oct/11 with stuart lade

Rob Pitt - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Nick Arding

nick arding - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/11 with rob pitt

Some good technical moves on big holds. Chris led first 2 pitches in a oner. I led last two. Don't try to link the last two pitches together, you'll never make it to the belay, but, now I've said that you gotta try.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/11 with Chris Carroll

Lead first two as one, good exposure at the start of the second. Pumpy last two pitches...glad mason was there!
chriscarroll - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/11 with Alex Mason

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

with Ross
switch - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/09

First pitch - loose. Second pitch - steep and loose up to break - then exposed traverse. Both gripped and so abbed off!!! Thus - an E1 version created
sinbad - AltLd - 19/Aug/09 with Mike Raine

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Aug/09

Had an awesome day today with Ste’ Davies. Having heard good things about it from Tony Shelmerdine, I said “Yes” to Appian Way, an E2 5c *** girdle of Castell Y Gwynt. What an amazing route; fantastically exposed. To begin with, there’s a 5a pitch that goes up the right hand of the buttress to get you to the traverse. This is a little scrappy and I was glad of taking a set of cams. The splattered remains of a young seagull on the belay ledge weren’t very pleasant either. After the ascending through the guano, the three traverse pitches are 5a, 5b and 5c. From the edge of the roof you can see your partner on the hanging belay, this gives you some sense of exposure, but as soon as you set out under the roof, it’s either keep going or fall off. Looking at the huge drop below you and how far you are from the next runner, you get an even more heightened sense of exposure. I was glad this pitch was 5a  For me the best was pitch 3. Perhaps because it was the traverse pitch that I lead, it felt harder and longer than the other traverse pitches. It’s steady going, on big holds, but you’re pretty much walking in space. Lots of space. The crux move comes right at the end of the traverse, and for me, was the hardest move on the route. After that, you have to down climb to a bolt belay. This must feel quite serious for your second as they are down climbing from above the gear, so it’s a good idea to put a few pieces in. Steve came and joined me on the belay ledge, and made what I felt was the crux move seem easy. As the wind was blowing, Steve said that if communication was hampered by the wind, he would use tugs on the rope to signal, and with that, he set about the final traverse at 5c. I’d never climbed 5c before but it was something I’d been wanting to do for a few weeks now. With no idea of what 5c felt like, I wondered if this was a silly place to have my first taste. I knew it was E2, so that suggested a lack of gear, and it was a traverse, so I was never going to be protected from above, any fall would mean a long swing, into thin air. Did I mention the exposure? Then I reminded myself of how chossy the rock is at the top of all Great Orme routes. Oh joy, if I did fall, which was pretty likely as it was my first 5c, I was going to take a huge swing, miles off the ground, and there’s a chance that Steve’s runners might not hold? I hung off the bolts belaying Steve and pondered these thoughts for a moment. Ste had gone out of view some time ago, and all I could see was a few runners with long distances between them. Then the half way point on the ropes ran through my hands. 30meters! This is going to be pumpy. Yep, it’s pretty likely that I’m going to fall. Having heard stories about people getting lowered off from here, I wondered if it wasn’t such a bad idea after all. When I heard the yell “Safe”, I convinced myself that falling here, although far more scary, would feel no different to falling on a climbing wall, and set off on the final pitch. Having built it up so much in my headed, not knowing what to expect, I weighted a runner before setting off into the unknown. You can imagine my delight when I came around the corner to find Ste belaying above me and that I had made it alive :D An absolutely cracking route. Cheers for taking us up there Ste, I would never have attempted it otherwise.
Glyn Davidson - AltLd - 09/Apr/09 with Ste Davies

jeffmcd56 - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Wez

ellis - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Dan Rowles

Brown - AltLd - Oct/05

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

adi bryant - AltLd O/S - Apr/98 with Ollie

Ched - AltLd - 1997 with Mark Hamilton

kristian - 1997

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Aug/88

shark - AltLd - 31/Aug/85 with Seb Grieve

Mike Owen - 19/Sep/82 with Pete Chadwick, Al Stewart

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, pigeonslipper, Mike Goldthorp, Ewan Russell, mattyork2

Voting
Total votes cast 31
hard E30 of 11
E30 of 11
easy E30 of 11
hard E22 of 11
E28 of 11
easy E21 of 11
hard E10 of 11
E10 of 11
easy E10 of 11
hard 6a0 of 10
6a0 of 10
easy 6a0 of 10
hard 5c0 of 10
5c5 of 10
easy 5c4 of 10
hard 5b1 of 10
5b0 of 10
easy 5b0 of 10
3 Stars8 of 10
2 Stars2 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

Lead3 of 36 (8.3%)
Alt Leads25 of 36 (69.4%)
Unknown8 of 36 (22.2%)

'Climbed'20 of 36 (55.6%)
clean O/S16 of 36 (44.4%)