Rockfax Description
Another utterly compelling line, you can spot the chalky holds from the road. Getting a bit polished now. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
** NB. Despite this being 7b for years, the concensus is that in its current polished state this is now worth 7b+. It has gone in the new guide as such **

Hidden 26/Nov Lead O/S
Tomar 29/Oct Lead RP

Spectacular pumpy route!

with Norvegian John
anthony henry 28/Oct Lead RP

Went for the flash but got the crux section wrong. Got next go but only just

Dibdawg 26/Mar Lead dnf
with Mat Coburn, Unknown
dan gibson 25/Mar Lead O/S
with julie carroll
quiffhanger 26/Feb Lead RP

2nd go. Misread the crux and followed some duff chalk so dropped the o/s.

Hidden ?/Nov/14 Lead O/S
lewiz 26/Apr/14 Lead dnf
anguskille 18/Mar/14 Lead O/S

pumped! perfect climb- techy, pumpy, balancy then groovy finish!

with Ed, Ad + Rob
Hidden 07/Feb/14 Lead RP
thebigfriendlymoose 01/Feb/14 Lead RP

3rd go. Fingery crux, lovely jug pulling after, great line.

with Stephen
nathanlee 04/Jan/14 Lead β

chuffed to flash, very pumped. if you climb in the peak you wont think its polished.

with Jack Lawledge, Anna Gilyeat, Oli Grounsell
Rachel Slater 11/Dec/13 Lead RP

Had 'last day of a three month trip' blues on this one and was worried I couldn't do it. Went smoothly on the RP though.

with Meshi, Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 11/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Tricky! Didn't seem very polished, certainly sustained though!

with Meshi Biglman, Rachel Slater
Hidden 03/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Nov/13 Lead O/S
J.Wells 03/Nov/13 Lead β
Hidden 03/May/13 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 12/Apr/13 Lead RP

2nd rp this year. Had play 2012

Luke Dawson 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
GuyVG 29/Mar/13 Lead dnf

Disaster. Pumped and fucked by 1/4 in, lowered in shame blaming the dodgy rope.

with Ram, Coops and Calamity Oakes
Ram MkiV 28/Mar/13 Lead O/S

great to be on endurance routes again. Read crux wrong at first and placed draws so lots of pump management necessary

with Lee Van Noaks
Duncan Campbell 21/Feb/13 Lead RP

Awesome! Managed it first redpoint having failed to do the crux, coming down, dogging it to the top once. Went for a burn to see what the best link I could get was and ended up just about managing the pump to the top, well psyched! Hardest Redpoint to date. Defo soft for 7b+...

with Robbie
Alex Mason 21/Feb/13 Lead β

Superb enduro-fest.

with Jake Rogers
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 21/Feb/13 2nd
PeterDawson ??/2013 Lead β
Adam Booth 13/Dec/12 Lead RP

1st RP

Adam Booth 10/Dec/12 Lead dog

bolt to bolt

Ed Booth 10/Dec/12 Lead RP

Dropped flash, second go

Ed Booth 09/Dec/12 Lead dnf

Dropped flash just after crux due to mega pump

Hidden ?/Dec/12 Lead RP
willoates 07/Nov/12 Lead β

Brilliant route!!!! one of the first lines i saw on arrival in siurana, bit of a crux then sustained easier (but a bit run out) to the top.

with Anna Gilyeat
Luke Brooks 06/Nov/12 Lead β
with Will, Glyn Hudson
Glyn 05/Nov/12 Lead β
Hidden 05/Nov/12 Lead RP
K Wall 26/Oct/12 Lead dog

Late start climbing after a really wet morning. Worked the crux (between bolt 4 and 5) with Jo about 4 times. Rest of the route felt good albeit run out in places. First four bolts make great climbing.

C coldwell-storry 07/Oct/12 Lead RP

2nd go

with rob lay
jolucas ?/Oct/12 Lead dnf
jimmyrua 06/May/12 Lead dog

next time

with pete87abs, Rob Tyler, David Brigham
dj_brigham05 06/May/12 Lead RP

2nd go. Brilliant!

Dan Jenkin 22/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Richmond, James Jacobs, Jacob Cook
Hidden 23/Feb/12 Lead dog
steve_biczyk 09/Feb/12 Lead RP

2nd go, never been this pumped before...

with Huw, Marc
esther ?/Feb/12 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
jgustafsson 09/Dec/11 Lead

Bit soft for 7b+? Did 2nd go and apart from a short crux it really is just about keeping the pump under control. Very, very good though and Papagora looks almost better!

with Jen
Hidden 17/Nov/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 03/Nov/11 Lead RP
Wendy 02/Nov/11 Lead RP

Second go! Fantastic - loved it.

with Tom Ball
markalmack 30/Oct/11 Lead RP

2nd go

with andy lole, Dave morse
billb ?/Sep/11 Lead
with Lee
Andrew Barker 03/May/11 Lead

Ground-up second go. Tried for the onsight but fell off after getting flash-pumped and muffing the crux. A fantastic route and nowhere near as polished as I thought it might be. Not sure about the grade but upgrading due to apparent polish seems strange as compared with somewhere like Stoney the rock felt almost untouched!

with Chris Taylor
Ross Kirkland ?/May/11 Lead O/S
mgeek 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with mark mcgowan
Robbie_Phillips ?/Apr/11 Lead
with Natalie Berry
barni 01/Dec/10 Lead dog
with Comrad, luke, Liam fleming
Hidden 27/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Richard Horn 10/May/10 Lead RP
La Mont ?/May/10 Lead RP
derico 19/Mar/10 Lead RP

Messed up onsight, did next try few days later, after working out the crux.. was raining so the top was quite spicey!

with Cal
Dave Turnbull, BMC 11/Nov/09 Lead RP

1st RP putting the clips in.

with Stuart McAleese
Hidden 28/Apr/09 Lead O/S
mattyork2 11/Apr/09 Lead dog

3 dogged goes, in the perfect rain umbrella - only route dry all day. Decided too hard but definitely one for next trip. Awesome, beautiful route.

ksjs 28/Feb/09 Lead dnf

did crux on 3rd go but got into a mood with the bolting higher up and lowered off :(

with alex
ksjs 28/Feb/09 Lead dog

did crux 2nd go. think the wall got the better of me psychologically and i took 2 rests on way to 1st belay. took me 3 gos to do moves away from 1st belay then rested at each on bolt on way to 2nd belay - just a bit scared. took 5 gos to do final move. cool route and confident i could do next time.

with alex
dannyboy83 ?/Jan/09 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Dec/08 Lead β
Hidden ?/Oct/08 Lead RP
gregoritos ?/May/08 Lead O/S

onsight placing draws

feilx 31/Dec/07 Lead RP
Cassidy 15/Dec/07 Lead O/S
with Hannah Banana
Hidden 15/Jan/07 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 15/May/06 Lead RP
with Andy Price
Hidden 10/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Jon Garside ?/Oct/05 Lead RP
Rich Kirby ?/Jan/05 Lead RP
with Owen Tomkins
Gus 22/Oct/04 Lead O/S

always thought this was hardish at 7b!

Hidden ??/2004 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 10/Apr/94 Lead O/S

Highlight of the trip, superb. Given 7b+ when I did it.

with KM
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, ashtond6, Harry Chaplin, Hidden, lewiz, Hidden, cjd91, alexanderjwatts, Hidden, Hidden, felixthelion, julesp, Hidden, Hidden
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Votes cast 14
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set