UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Rockfax Description
An excellent problem, when it is clean. Climb the middle of the slab past a flat hold at 4m. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Classic slab - straight up the middle of Sweetheart Slab using the obvious square hold at 12ft.

Simon Mooney.

Ticklists

Bovey Woods , Bovey Woods 3 Stars (F7A & Under) , Devon Bouldering (with a few honorary problems from Cornwall)

Feedback

User Date Notes
granticus 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: First class. Have repeated for fun on subsequent visits. An amenable grade for most. Go do it, if you haven't.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First class. Have repeated for fun on subsequent visits. An amenable grade for most. Go do it, if you haven't.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bovey Woods

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Voting
High f5+
Mid f5+
Low f5+
High f5
Mid f5
Low f5
High f4+
Mid f4+
Low f4+
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Bridge

Grade: f5 ***
(Bonehill Rocks)

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