Flytrap*** E2 5b
[Flytrap, 4 kb]82m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic route, that in reality is barely 25m high, but the winding path up and then down into the depths of the deep dark cave make this route a long and adventurous undertaking. To reach the start of the route, you need to abseil down to the ledge by the blowhole. Then swing out right to the seaward edge of the buttress and continue abseiling down to a belay at the base of the arete. This all feels a bit insecure.
1) 4a, 15m. Move up and left on good holds to gain a ledge that overlooks the belly of the deep sea cave, and belay at its left-hand end.
2) 5a, 20m. From the ledge, move down for a few metres to a descending line of small but positive holds, remembering to place gear to protect the unlucky second. Belay just above the sea at the base of a black groove, below a massive chockstone.
3) 5b, 20m. Climb the black groove to where the rock steepens - the rock here can be very damp. Somehow traverse right towards the light, passing a peg and be grateful that it is too dark to see how rotten it is. Steep moves on big holds lead out onto the chockstone. Pull up onto its top and belay.
4) 4b, 30m. Ascend the right-hand wall back up towards the top of the abseil point. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth.

Photo: Flytrap © Simon Lambert
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 51 logbooks, and on 34 wishlists.

Mega! What a climb! route was goping wet and covered in green slime! Plus Chinese water torture treatment on the stances....soaked! Still didn't detract from the quality of the climb with Good holds on crux pitch in a great position all the way to glory..
Bruce Houston - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/15 with Mike

Brilliant route. The crux on P3 is on incredible and committing terrain, was proper gripped and had the guns on overdrive to get myself onto the chock stone!
alexjz - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Sam Farmsworth

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Woaaah that was something! Led P2&4. High tide so abbed into belay at the top of P1, then traversed a high line into the belay at the bottom of the groove - more like 5b. The dead seal pup bobbing along right below me was not helpful. Rich then went up the soaking wet groove and traverse, but ended up right next to me at the belay again when the in situ nut at the crux popped out! Made me a bit shaky but he did it all again and got through superwet moves amazingly. I ended up dangling a fair bit at the crux, but it's such an amazing position - I didn't really mind to hang there for a bit!
Sardien - AltLd dog - 26/Aug/13 with Rich Gentry

Backed off continuing on to the 3rd pitch, dripping slime up the groove and bulging wall above on P3, gear looked thin and spaced :/ Reversed 2nd pitch and escaped up a VS. Will go back at low tide during a heatwave! Mega adventure even though we didn't finish.
papashango - AltLd dnf - 30/Jun/13 with Simon

I led middle pitch. Route completely gripping. totally lived up to its name, it lures you in and you are right inside before you see the green dripping crux which you must conquer to escape the rising tide! Amazing position high up in the roof looking accross the high traverse to the chockstone. Photos do not do this route justice, you need to get in there and have a look, if you think you can get out again. . .
Andrew Wilson - AltLd - 11/Aug/12 with jon stewart

Led P1 and 2 done together. Matt lead the nails greasy 3rd pitch and took a swinger. I Fell off at the crux too. Hoisted to the chock stone, then led the last pitch. The approach is a bit hairy, wouldn't fancy it in the wet.
Chris Perry - AltLd - 02/Jun/12 with Matt Rust

Super adventurous route! Kit lead the first 2 pitches in a oner, P1 as described in ground up guide is a joke! Nowhere near 12m and at 4a abit of a nonsense. The main pitch was very damp, everything was greasy, couldn't trust the footing at all! "jugs on the back of the chockstone" as mentioned in the guidebook did not materialize and resorted to a beached whale / grovelling / thrutching approach to get onto the chockstone. Would happily repeat this in drier conditions, a great adventure and route! Probably a 5c move to get onto the chockstone. 1 fall making that move -- pumped! Top tip: brush up on your hoisting drills before you go incase your second comes off moving onto the chockstone!
rustaldo - AltLd dog - 02/Jun/12 with Kit Perry

P2, P4 Dan got the lucky straw, but both my pitches were good too. Never going to forget this one.
The Green Giant - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/11

dan-8990 - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/11 with AO

crux is wet, loose and hard- thats my excuse for catching some airtime. sick route!!
dan ely - AltLd dog - 27/Aug/11 with polly

Cave was horribly wet, retreated by reversing the second pitch.. Fine effort on Pete's behalf having a look at the crux, looked grim to me..Ground up N. Wales rock had no mention of a bird ban.. Only one big chick above the crag!
Lawrie Brand - AltLd - 27/Jul/11 with Pete Hart

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/11

Phenomenally wild. Led P1 and P3. On first pitch I went right up to the height of the cave to a big ledge, contrary to the topo, but the description fit. The main pitch was pretty damp and needed to drop a loop and get more chalk. Really intense crux involving a proper cutloose on the chock. Memorable and hard for E2.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/11 with Bubbles

its harder than 5b, awesome route tho.
centurion05 - 2nd rpt - 2011 with chris thorne

mux - AltLd O/S - 2011 with Neil Griffiths

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2010

Rob Greenwood - UKC - AltLd O/S - 2010 with Helena Robinson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/08

centurion05 - 2nd - 18/Sep/08 with chris thorne

mux - 15/Jun/08

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - AltLd dog - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/07

Ben Wolstenholme - AltLd - 25/Oct/07 with John Roberts (JR)

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/07

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/07 with Ed Booth

Will1 - Jul/06 with Mike

Ian McNeill - 2006

Mark Reeves - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Intimidating route...brittle rock when damp-always i guess. Snapped a hold on main pitch.
Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/05 with Ash

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/05

Gus - Lead O/S - 02/May/04 with Rich Pickford

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 2004 with Dave Garry

Hidden - AltLd - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/01

Hidden - 2001

sadams - Lead O/S - 01/May/00 with Tom Briggs

Hidden - AltLd - 18/May/91

andy gittins - 1985

steve L - AltLd - 14/Aug/78 with Paul Williams, sharpie

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, JonmapDL, Dan Geh, Kevin Robert Jones, rustaldo, tlmarjot, andy dunn, iceaxejuggler, willotheward, rustaldo, philhilo, Jimb0, Dr Caterpillar, mattyork2, oliverthomp, clive-greenwood, dja

Total votes cast 21
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