350m, 7 pitches.
Central Chain, 350m, Grade III.
The route links together three prominent icefalls of increasing difficulty on the highest part of the crag right of Birkett's Gully. All 7 pitches are about 50m in length. Pitches 1 & 2 mainly ice, pitch three walk/grade I, pitch 3 ice (crux, tech grade 4), pitch 5 grade 2 gully, pitches 6 & 7 grade 1 mixed ground.
Start by a small three-trunked rowan tree where the scree abuts against the crag. Climb slightly left for two pitches to 2nd belay below steep rock band. Walk left and up to next prominent icefall. Finish up the well defined gully (ice) and 100m of easy ground to summit.
The route links together three prominent icefalls of increasing difficulty on the highest part of the crag right of Birkett's Gully. All 7 pitches are about 50m in length. Pitches 1 & 2 mainly ice, pitch three walk/grade I, pitch 3 ice (crux, tech grade 4), pitch 5 grade 2 gully, pitches 6 & 7 grade 1 mixed ground.
Start by a small three-trunked rowan tree where the scree abuts against the crag. Climb slightly left for two pitches to 2nd belay below steep rock band. Walk left and up to next prominent icefall. Finish up the well defined gully (ice) and 100m of easy ground to summit.
Matt Gordon, Roger Wilkinson (various leads). 05/Nov/2010.
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