|65m, 2 pitches. Start just left of the smirk below a steep bulge. There is an obvious icy fan hanging down from the lip of the big roof (when in condition)
1. 25m. Climb the short bulge up and left to a turfy band/break in the steep wall. Traverse the steep wall leftwards (Bold) to the thin Ice fan. Gain the ice with difficulty (tenuous) and climb the hanging pillar to the cave/ledge. Belay.
2. 40m. Step left out of the cave and delicately climb the steep ice to a large snowy ledge, at the back of the ledge there is another steep ice wall, climb this to its top and finish up the easy ground as for “The Smirk”.
Greg Boswell and Neil Carnegie 09/Dec/2010
Photo: FA 'The Crooked Smile' © Sean Bell
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