40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Varied and interesting climbing on solid rock. Pitch 2 is at the top end of the grade. Start 9m to the right of the base of Finale Groove at a head-height overhang.
1) 5a, 18m. Arm up on big holds to get established above the lip of the overhang. Move right to a crack and take this to a small overhang. Step right and then back up left to another small overhang. Climb the short crack in the wall above to a large ledge at the fault-line and belay next to a boulder.
2) 5a, 20m. Step up off the boulder and move up 4m and then right to a depression. Traverse 2m left and move up to a jug in a pocket and a good medium size nut. Climb the fine, sustained wall and small corner directly above to a stable exit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A fine addition, instantly popular; but with spaced gear on the second pitch. Start 5 metres right of the crack of B Line, just left of a crack in the wall above, below an obvious flake leading to the large faultline ledge.

1 18m 4c Pull over the overhang onto the wall on huge jugs and step right to the crack. Climb it, and then move right until below a small overhang. Pull over the overhang, left to a niche below a roof. Trend left to climb the steep flake to the faultline. good ledge belay with large block.( as for Sweet SA)

2 19m 5a Pull up and right over the bulge to gain an obvious large depression Traverse left for 2 metres around a bulge and move up past a pocket (good wire). climb up from this, slight groove, finish up small short corner to the top.

P Finclaire, S Lloyd, Ms T Burrows] 30/Jan/1997

Ticklists: Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, SW Climbs - Swanage.

cem 20/Sep Lead O/S

Good route. Led both pitches: thought the second was easier than the first, but there you go.

Pero 20/Sep 2nd
halfwaythere 05/Sep AltLd O/S

Led easier first pitch Enjoyed cheeky start

with mark
Thinker01 05/Sep Lead O/S

Lead P2

islandlynx 28/Jun AltLd O/S

Led p2. Interesting route, good contrasting pitches. Route on the second half of p2 is not totally obvious, I went up on the right of the undercut jug. The mentioned jug in a pocket had a birds nest in, made placing gear tricky.

TomRiddelsdell 28/Jun AltLd β

Lead first pitch. Shane placed the first piece of gear before downclimbing when it started raining and we decided to switch pitches

Russtygibbons 07/Jun 2nd O/S
ASchwirtz 07/Jun 2nd O/S
richardashe 07/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun 2nd O/S
mattprince 13/Apr AltLd O/S
ollie1 25/Mar AltLd O/S
pearson9596 21/Mar 2nd O/S
philhilo 16/Mar Lead O/S

Even with the full triple rack, on a single, with 8 layers (4 coats) this felt stiff for the grade. Bottom pitch ace fun. Top pitch a bit squeezed in and not obvious and gear pretty scarce at crucial moments + loose in parts.

with Helen E
ian d f 14/Mar Lead O/S

as one pitch

onlyfoddington 14/Mar 2nd O/S

Some pretty fun bits interspersed in some poorer bits.

with Michael, Ian
Shane Willis 06/Mar AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1, thought the moves were awesome! Si found the second pitch difficult to read and found little in the way of good gear.

Cheese Monkey 04/Jan AltLd O/S

Fantastic. led p2 which was spectacular in particular, solid rock on the meat of it and great pumpy climbing, loads of gear...

with Rich R
joedoherty 19/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Fantastic first pitch!

with Anna Gibson
elfka 19/Nov/14 2nd
with Joe Doherty
brian watson 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Steve Newman
Hidden 16/Sep/14 AltLd
mdjb 03/Aug/14 -
Hidden 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
rustaldo 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Somewhat meh. First pitch was fun and juggy, think we got a bit lost on P2, rock was a bit dodgy.

with Alex
Alex Hallam 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Buzz, buzz, buzz lightyear to the rescue! If I were still a boy scout I would have definitely earned my seagull herding badge. Lucked out and got the first pitch but then sat in excrement for the next 20mins so on balance it was fine.

Julian Prieto 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Monkey_Alan 17/May/14 2nd rpt
CurlyStevo 16/Mar/14 AltLd

I lead pitch 1, its has a tricky crux for HVS 5a but its got great gear where it matters a clean fall out zone and is quite short lived. Pitch 2 doesn't have a single move as hard as pitch 1 but it really goes on and on and isn't as juggy / positive as many ruckle routes, could just be E1 IMO.

with clipskipper
Monkey_Alan 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

AlexD 15/Mar/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 11/Jan/14 2nd
Hidden 11/Jan/14 2nd
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 11/Dec/13 Lead O/S
waldenmatt 29/Oct/13 2nd

2nd both pitches, 1 rest for removing stuck wire.

Dave Mahon 29/Oct/13 Lead O/S

P1 only.

with Matt Sumpster
Hidden 03/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
LukeyG 25/Jun/13 Lead
Mark Warnett ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

pretty good, not entirely obvious line on 2nd pitch

Kirill 08/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2

mike.moss 08/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
Helen Gibson 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

led p.1, which is considerably easier than p.2 !

with Alice
Hidden 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with andrew porter
paultaylor 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
will moy 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with paul taylor
wi11 22/May/12 AltLd O/S


Graham Westbrook 22/May/12 AltLd O/S
with wi11
paddygoodwinlondon 13/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Gareth Hall
GarethHall 13/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

Sophie Nunn 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch, good route!

with Alex
AlexD 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Sophie
Ed Babs 15/May/11 AltLd O/S


clipskipper 15/May/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Good route - worth the trip.

with Ed Babington
Hidden 08/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
climbtim 08/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Top pitch pushed me hard, but a good lead drained at the top. Beware the large loose boulder on the belay ledge and a couple of loose blocks half way up the second pitch. A typical Ruckle experience which deserves to be in the rockfax/cc guide

Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Marti999 09/Dec/10 Lead O/S

very good on excellent rock.

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ciderslider, Hidden, lukerathmell, gilmourheid, jezb1
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 23
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set