Dorset > Boulder Ruckle >
 
Buzz Lightyear** HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< 'B' Line
 
Sweet SA >>
[P1 of Buzz Lightyear at the Ruckle, 3 kb]40m, 2 pitches. Varied and interesting climbing on solid rock. Pitch 2 is at the top end of the grade. Start 9m to the right of the base of Finale Groove at a head-height overhang. 1) 5a, 18m. Arm up on big holds to get established above the lip of the overhang. Move right to a crack and take this to a small overhang. Step right and then back up left to another small overhang. Climb the short crack in the wall above to a large ledge at the fault-line and belay next to a boulder. 2) 5a, 20m. Step up off the boulder and move up 4m and then right to a depression. Traverse 2m left and move up to a jug in a pocket and a good medium size nut. Climb the fine, sustained wall and small corner directly above to a stable exit. © ROCKFAX
A fine addition, instantly popular; but with spaced gear on the second pitch. Start 5 metres right of the crack of B Line, just left of a crack in the wall above, below an obvious flake leading to the large faultline ledge. 1 18m 4c Pull over the overhang onto the wall on huge jugs and step right to the crack. Climb it, and then move right until below a small overhang. Pull over the overhang, left to a niche below a roof. Trend left to climb the steep flake to the faultline. good ledge belay with large block.( as for Sweet SA) 2 19m 5a Pull up and right over the bulge to gain an obvious large depression Traverse left for 2 metres around a bulge and move up past a pocket (good wire). climb up from this, slight groove, finish up small short corner to the top.
P Finclaire, S Lloyd, Ms T Burrows] 30/Jan/1997

Ticklists: Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012.

Photo: P1 of Buzz Lightyear at the Ruckle © fawlty
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 33 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

I lead pitch 1, its has a tricky crux for HVS 5a but its got great gear where it matters a clean fall out zone and is quite short lived. Pitch 2 doesn't have a single move as hard as pitch 1 but it really goes on and on and isn't as juggy / positive as many ruckle routes, could be E1 IMO.
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 16/Mar/14 with clipskipper

Led P1.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Alex Dennis

AlexD - AltLd rpt - 15/Mar/14 with Monkey Alan

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jan/14

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jan/14

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/13

2nd both pitches, 1 rest for removing stuck wire.
fawlty - 2nd - 29/Oct/13 with Dave M twmc

P1 only.
Dave Mahon - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/13 with Matt Sumpster

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/13

LukeyG - Lead - 25/Jun/13

pretty good, not entirely obvious line on 2nd pitch
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Jun/13

Led P2
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Mike Moss

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Kirill Spiridonov

led p.1, which is considerably easier than p.2 !
Helen Gibson - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Alice

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12

max railing - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/12 with Luis

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with andrew porter

paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Will I Am

will moy - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with paul taylor

P2
wi11 - AltLd O/S - 22/May/12 with Graham Westbrook

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 22/May/12 with wi11

paddygoodwinlondon - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12 with Gareth Hall

Led 2nd pitch
GarethHall - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12 with Patrick Goodwin

Led 2nd pitch, good route!
Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Alex

AlexD - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Sophie

P1
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 15/May/11 with Lee Mercer

Lead P2. Good route - worth the trip.
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 15/May/11 with Ed Babington

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/11

Top pitch pushed me hard, but a good lead drained at the top. Beware the large loose boulder on the belay ledge and a couple of loose blocks half way up the second pitch. A typical Ruckle experience which deserves to be in the rockfax/cc guide
climbtim - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/11 with Tom Thorne

very good on excellent rock.
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/10 with Mark Glaister

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gilmourheid, jezb1

Voting
Total votes cast 35
hard E10 of 12
E11 of 12
easy E12 of 12
hard HVS3 of 12
HVS5 of 12
easy HVS1 of 12
hard VS0 of 12
VS0 of 12
easy VS0 of 12
hard 5b0 of 12
5b0 of 12
easy 5b2 of 12
hard 5a5 of 12
5a5 of 12
easy 5a0 of 12
hard 4c0 of 12
4c0 of 12
easy 4c0 of 12
3 Stars0 of 11
2 Stars9 of 11
1 Star2 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent

Lead6 of 33 (18.2%)
Followed4 of 33 (12.1%)
Alt Leads22 of 33 (66.7%)
Unknown1 of 33 (3.0%)

'Climbed'7 of 33 (21.2%)
clean O/S25 of 33 (75.8%)
clean rpt1 of 33 (3.0%)