Buzz Lightyear** HVS 5a
[P1 of Buzz Lightyear at the Ruckle, 3 kb]40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Varied and interesting climbing on solid rock. Pitch 2 is at the top end of the grade. Start 9m to the right of the base of Finale Groove at a head-height overhang.
1) 5a, 18m. Arm up on big holds to get established above the lip of the overhang. Move right to a crack and take this to a small overhang. Step right and then back up left to another small overhang. Climb the short crack in the wall above to a large ledge at the fault-line and belay next to a boulder.
2) 5a, 20m. Step up off the boulder and move up 4m and then right to a depression. Traverse 2m left and move up to a jug in a pocket and a good medium size nut. Climb the fine, sustained wall and small corner directly above to a stable exit. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A fine addition, instantly popular; but with spaced gear on the second pitch. Start 5 metres right of the crack of B Line, just left of a crack in the wall above, below an obvious flake leading to the large faultline ledge.

1 18m 4c Pull over the overhang onto the wall on huge jugs and step right to the crack. Climb it, and then move right until below a small overhang. Pull over the overhang, left to a niche below a roof. Trend left to climb the steep flake to the faultline. good ledge belay with large block.( as for Sweet SA)

2 19m 5a Pull up and right over the bulge to gain an obvious large depression Traverse left for 2 metres around a bulge and move up past a pocket (good wire). climb up from this, slight groove, finish up small short corner to the top.

P Finclaire, S Lloyd, Ms T Burrows] 30/Jan/1997

Ticklists: Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Photo: P1 of Buzz Lightyear at the Ruckle © waldenmatt
Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 58 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Led p2. Interesting route, good contrasting pitches. Route on the second half of p2 is not totally obvious, I went up on the right of the undercut jug. The mentioned jug in a pocket had a birds nest in, made placing gear tricky.
islandlynx - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/15 with TomRiddelsdell

Lead first pitch. Shane placed the first piece of gear before downclimbing when it started raining and we decided to switch pitches
TomRiddelsdell - AltLd β - 28/Jun/15 with Shane Williams

Russtygibbons - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Ant, richardashe

ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Russ, Richard Ashe

richardashe - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Russtygibbons, ASchwirtz

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/15

mattprince - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/15 with Joe Doherty

ollie1 - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/15

pearson9596 - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/15 with Dave Brock, Ian Faulkner

Even with the full triple rack, on a single, with 8 layers (4 coats) this felt stiff for the grade. Bottom pitch ace fun. Top pitch a bit squeezed in and not obvious and gear pretty scarce at crucial moments + loose in parts.
philhilo - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/15 with Helen E

as one pitch
ian d f - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/15 with David Brock, Michael P

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/15

Led pitch 1, thought the moves were awesome! Si found the second pitch difficult to read and found little in the way of good gear.
Shane Willis - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/15

Fantastic. led p2 which was spectacular in particular, solid rock on the meat of it and great pumpy climbing, loads of gear...
Cheese Monkey - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/15 with Rich R

Fantastic first pitch!
joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/14 with Anna Gibson

elfka - 2nd - 19/Nov/14 with Joe Doherty

brian watson - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Steve Newman

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Sep/14

mdjb - 03/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/14

Somewhat meh. First pitch was fun and juggy, think we got a bit lost on P2, rock was a bit dodgy.
rustaldo - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/14 with Alex

Buzz, buzz, buzz lightyear to the rescue! If I were still a boy scout I would have definitely earned my seagull herding badge. Lucked out and got the first pitch but then sat in excrement for the next 20mins so on balance it was fine.
Alex Hallam - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/14 with Matt Rust

Led P1
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14 with Lawrence Dudley, Alan Blanchflower

Monkey_Alan - 2nd rpt - 17/May/14 with Lawrence Dudley, Julian Prieto

I lead pitch 1, its has a tricky crux for HVS 5a but its got great gear where it matters a clean fall out zone and is quite short lived. Pitch 2 doesn't have a single move as hard as pitch 1 but it really goes on and on and isn't as juggy / positive as many ruckle routes, could just be E1 IMO.
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 16/Mar/14 with clipskipper

Led P1.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Alex Dennis

AlexD - AltLd rpt - 15/Mar/14 with Monkey Alan

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jan/14

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jan/14

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/13

2nd both pitches, 1 rest for removing stuck wire.
waldenmatt - 2nd - 29/Oct/13 with Dave M twmc

P1 only.
Dave Mahon - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/13 with Matt Sumpster

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/13

LukeyG - Lead - 25/Jun/13

pretty good, not entirely obvious line on 2nd pitch
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Jun/13

Led P2
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Mike Moss

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Kirill Spiridonov

led p.1, which is considerably easier than p.2 !
Helen Gibson - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Alice

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with andrew porter

paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Will I Am

will moy - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with paul taylor

wi11 - AltLd O/S - 22/May/12 with Graham Westbrook

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 22/May/12 with wi11

paddygoodwinlondon - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12 with Gareth Hall

Led 2nd pitch
GarethHall - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12 with Patrick Goodwin

Led 2nd pitch, good route!
Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Alex

AlexD - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Sophie

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 15/May/11 with Lee Mercer

Lead P2. Good route - worth the trip.
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 15/May/11 with Ed Babington

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/11

Top pitch pushed me hard, but a good lead drained at the top. Beware the large loose boulder on the belay ledge and a couple of loose blocks half way up the second pitch. A typical Ruckle experience which deserves to be in the rockfax/cc guide
climbtim - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/11 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

very good on excellent rock.
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/10 with Mark Glaister

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ciderslider, lukerathmell, gilmourheid, jezb1

Total votes cast 58
hard E10 of 21
E11 of 21
easy E13 of 21
hard HVS7 of 21
HVS9 of 21
easy HVS1 of 21
hard VS0 of 21
VS0 of 21
easy VS0 of 21
hard 5b0 of 20
5b0 of 20
easy 5b3 of 20
hard 5a9 of 20
5a8 of 20
easy 5a0 of 20
hard 4c0 of 20
4c0 of 20
easy 4c0 of 20
3 Stars0 of 17
2 Stars12 of 17
1 Star5 of 17
0 Stars0 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat