|Buzz Lightyear||HVS 5a|
|40m, 2 pitches. Varied and interesting climbing on solid rock. Pitch 2 is at the top end of the grade. Start 9m to the right of the base of Finale Groove at a head-height overhang.|
1) 5a, 18m. Arm up on big holds to get established above the lip of the overhang. Move right to a crack and take this to a small overhang. Step right and then back up left to another small overhang. Climb the short crack in the wall above to a large ledge at the fault-line and belay next to a boulder.
2) 5a, 20m. Step up off the boulder and move up 4m and then right to a depression. Traverse 2m left and move up to a jug in a pocket and a good medium size nut. Climb the fine, sustained wall and small corner directly above to a stable exit. © ROCKFAX
A fine addition, instantly popular; but with spaced gear on the second pitch. Start 5 metres right of the crack of ‘B’ Line, just left of a crack in the wall above, below an obvious flake leading to the large faultline ledge. 1 18m 4c Pull over the overhang onto the wall on huge jugs and step right to the crack. Climb it, and then move right until below a small overhang. Pull over the overhang, left to a niche below a roof. Trend left to climb the steep flake to the faultline. good ledge belay with large block.( as for Sweet SA) 2 19m 5a Pull up and right over the bulge to gain an obvious large depression Traverse left for 2 metres around a bulge and move up past a pocket (good wire). climb up from this, slight groove, finish up small short corner to the top.
P Finclaire, S Lloyd, Ms T Burrows] 30/Jan/1997
Photo: P1 of Buzz Lightyear at the Ruckle © waldenmatt