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Broad Gully Icefall* V 5

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[Su in her element, 2 kb]10m. A little to the right of the start of Broad Gully there is a short steep icefall. Might be more like IV 4 if it builds up well. Good nut and friend belay a few metres back. The top out is dicey unless well frozen as the ice ends abruptly and beyond this there is some boggy ground (again this might be better if well iced). Trend up and left on easy ground to join Broad Gully itself. It's the left hand icefall in this photo http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=134238 (which shows it in pretty fat condition - might be IV 4 if it's like that?)

Photo: Su in her element © Misha
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This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Was much thinner than in the photo linked in the description. Top half hadn't touched down so escpaed left into the gully.
shed_hed - Solo O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Catherine Lawrence

in IV 4 condition, very thin and the upper pillar hadnt touched down, climbed up and out leftwards into broad gully
Webster - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/13

leo-z-g - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/13 with Webster

Hidden - Solo - 2013

Were going to have a look at the Black Ladders but didn't get up till 8 and didn't get out of Helyg till 10, so decided to instead wander up to Cwm Lloer. Moonflower wasn't in but this was, just about! The ice had been battered by the thaw but wasn't melting any more. It was however fairly thin on the initial section, which was effectively a pillar. Bridged out to the rock out left a few times towards the bottom, which was fun. The ice was generally quite hard and brittle despite the mild temperatures. Got two screws in around the little rest at just above half height. The top out was a gripper as the ice ended abruptly and there was no solid turf as the ground was boggy. Managed to pull up on one axe hooked on a bit of rock under the bog and the other planted in semifrozen bog. V 5 in these conditions. Su did well to second this but popped off a couple of times. Placed her first two screws in the belay at the bottom Finished with a calf burn up Broad Gully, which provided a short ice step about half way up where Su could practice placements a bit.
Misha - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/10 with Su

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/Dec/10

DannyK - Solo dnf - Feb/10 with Monkey, Christos

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
iksander, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 4
hard VI0 of 1
VI0 of 1
easy VI0 of 1
hard V0 of 1
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IV0 of 1
easy IV1 of 1
hard 60 of 1
60 of 1
easy 60 of 1
hard 50 of 1
50 of 1
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41 of 1
easy 40 of 1
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