10m. A little to the right of the start of Broad Gully there is a short steep icefall. Might be more like IV 4 if it builds up well. Good nut and friend belay a few metres back. The top out is dicey unless well frozen as the ice ends abruptly and beyond this there is some boggy ground (again this might be better if well iced). Trend up and left on easy ground to join Broad Gully itself.

It's the left hand icefall in this photo http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=134238 (which shows it in pretty fat condition - might be IV 4 if it's like that?)

shed_hed 30/Mar/13 Solo O/S

Was much thinner than in the photo linked in the description. Top half hadn't touched down so escpaed left into the gully.

with Catherine Lawrence
Webster 22/Mar/13 Lead O/S

in IV 4 condition, very thin and the upper pillar hadnt touched down, climbed up and out leftwards into broad gully

leo-z-g 21/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Webster
Hidden ??/2013 Solo
Misha 12/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Were going to have a look at the Black Ladders but didn't get up till 8 and didn't get out of Helyg till 10, so decided to instead wander up to Cwm Lloer. Moonflower wasn't in but this was, just about! The ice had been battered by the thaw but wasn't melting any more. It was however fairly thin on the initial section, which was effectively a pillar. Bridged out to the rock out left a few times towards the bottom, which was fun. The ice was generally quite hard and brittle despite the mild temperatures. Got two screws in around the little rest at just above half height. The top out was a gripper as the ice ended abruptly and there was no solid turf as the ground was boggy. Managed to pull up on one axe hooked on a bit of rock under the bog and the other planted in semifrozen bog. V 5 in these conditions. Su did well to second this but popped off a couple of times. Placed her first two screws in the belay at the bottom Finished with a calf burn up Broad Gully, which provided a short ice step about half way up where Su could practice placements a bit.

with Su
Hidden 12/Dec/10 2nd dog
DannyK ?/Feb/10 Solo dnf
with Monkey, Christos
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