|430m, 9 pitches. |
There are numerous variations to this route, most notably the Bellunesi variant which branches left at pitch 3. The route described here is the most logical but also one of the harder options.
Much of the route and its variants are marked with red or green paint, with difficulties never exceeding V+.
Either start directly below a long straight corner to the right of some bolted routes, or move a few metres right to a right-trending ramp with red markers (easier variant).
1) V, 45m. Climb the corner, passing an intermediate belay at 20m, to where it bears right then back left to a belay below a small continuation corner. Alternatively, ascend the ramp rightwards for one pitch (III, 35m) to belay below a niche, then follow a series of stepped corners left (IV-, 60m) for two pitches to rejoin at pitch 3.
2) IV, 30m. Ignore the continuation corner above, follow a short ramp to the left then climb vertically to a stance on a vegetated ledge below a yellow wall. The easier variant joins here.
3) IV+, 40m. The route is now marked with sporadic green paint. Climb the yellow wall diagonally left alongside a small pillar, overcome a crack and continue left to the top of a larger pillar.
4) V-, 30m. Step right off the pillar and climb a corner to the left. Continue direct to a small ledge just right of the arete.
5) V+, 40m. Make a short traverse across the ledge to reach the left side of the arete, climb the steep face above direct on small flakes to cross back right of the arete. Continue up a short crack then move left again to belay on the arete by a large boulder.
6) IV+, 45m. Make a stepped traverse left, passing through a small overhang to belay on a small pillar.
7) V+, 25m. Climb the wall above direct, then move slightly left to tackle another steep but well-pegged face.
8) IV, 25m. Traverse left, climb a crack direct and belay below a yellow overhang.
9) IV, 30m. Make another traverse left then climb direct then slightly right, ignoring a small corner gully on the left. Belay on a ledge to the left of a prominent gully.
10) V, 35m. Keep left of the gully and climb direct before crossing the gully to the right, making use of a long iron peg, then climb an overhanging face.
11) IV+, 45m. Climb a straightforward slab, follow a crack left then continue up an enjoyable flake. Climb a second crack then pull through an overhang to a belay.
12) IV+, 20m. Pull through the overhang on good holds, then continue up vegetated rock to reach two parallel cracks. Climb the left-hand crack direct to reach the summit. © ROCKFAX