Rockfax Description
An enjoyable route which takes the tower's central face.
Start 20m right of Via delle Guide, just left of a boulder.
1) III+, 40m. Enjoyable climbing leads direct up broken
rock, passing a flake on the left, to reach a good stance on a ledge.
2) III+, 30m. Move right to avoid a crack, then back left and direct to a ledge. Follow a ramp left to a stance on a little pinnacle.
3) IV-, 20m. Step left then follow a vegetated ramp right. Move back left to a stance.
4) IV, 30m. Trend right climbing a series of cracks up an excellent slab to reach a stance on a small ledge on an arete.
5) IV-, 25m. Climb direct passing numerous threads to reach a ledge.
6) IV+, 20m. Continue direct up a cracked vertical wall to a stance below a short corner.
7) IV, 25m. Step down and left then enter a rightwards trending chimney. Exit left after a few metres then continue to a stance level with vegetation on the left.
8) IV-, 40m. Climb diagonally right up a vague ridge then traverse left to a belay on a ramp below an overhanging wall. It is possible to escape right before the leftwards traverse to join the vegetated terrace of the descent, thus avoiding the final, more difficult, pitch.
9) V-, 40m. Climb a crack direct then move left to three pegs. Climb a second steep crack and enter the continuation corner. Follow this to its end then exit right to the summit. © Rockfax

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