Currently access can only be gained with permission of the landowner, Patrick Walker via email. Mr Walker owns the farm land and buildings below the left hand side of the cliff and the left wing of the crag. Other landowners own the various parcels of land below Central Wall and the Right Wing and the majority of the cliff face and are happy for climbing to continue but so far, the only agreed access route from the road is via Mr Walker's Land.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to the whole crag for both peregrine and raven. The birds on this cliff are more sensitive to disturbance than at other sites such as Malham Cove.
Rockfax Description
Start to the left of Passion off the Pitch at the edge of the buttress. 1) 6c, 28m. Climb past four bolts to meet up with Passion off the Pitch. Follow The Blue Swede's Shoes before a traverse can be made to access the Sidewinder belay. 2) 7a+, 28m. Make a pumpy traverse to reach Arch of Damocles and follow it to its last bolt. Go right to meet Shake, Rattle and Role then continue delicately rightwards to Pillar Talk. Finish via a rising traverse to the Rattlertrap lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A Two pitch traverse. 6c & 7a+. Superb!
Dave Musgrove, Keith Morgan, Nigel Baker 03/Sep/2005.
All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , Nigel Baker Ticklist
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Dib Scar)