|Ames Ice Hose||WI5+|
|150m, 3 pitches. Ames Ice Hose can be viewed from a spot on the highway as you drive down the hill into Ames from Telluride. Park next to the Power station in Ames and follow the forest track that leads from behind the white building on the south side of the small car park. This forest track will initially bend back and head north (away from the Ophir Wall) before it turns back to the South and continues gently uphill. Resisit the temptation to follow other narrow trails into the woods as most of them will lead to Lower Ames Falls. After about 10 to 15 mins of walking you will find some signs with a "Galloping Goose" (yes thats right) on them next to some private land signs. Continue following the signs and they will lead you across a small bridge upstream of Ames falls and then west uphill until you intersect the Old Galloping Goose railway (it's a path and under heavy snow there is little evidence of its historic nature). After about 5 mins walking west on this path you will pass some information boards on your right and a further 10 to 15 mins walking will bring you to the base of the drainage, the top of the "Hose" is visible above the trees. Climb up the steep drainage to the base. Total approach time by this route is about an hour. There are short cuts that cut across the river by Ames Falls and head up the steep boulder field to the Gallopin Goose trail but under heavy snow this might be awful!
Route: Pitch 1. Climb up to a bolt/piton belay on the left. This can be anythign from runout M6/WI5+ horror to fat WI4+ depending on conditons. 30m. Pitch 2. Climb the narrow ice runnel above the belay for 55m and belay at the base of the final headwall. This narrow pitch acts as a funnel for anything that comes off the route above. Avoid following parties if you can. WI4+/WI5.55m. Pitch 3. Climb the steep sheet of ice above and belay on a tree up and left once over the top. This long pitch can be split into two if required, and might be advised if you doubt your endurance. 60m. An amazing must do ice route!!|
Shea, Dawson, Kennedy
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