UKC

Restricted Access

The Gorge is currently out of bounds officially since storm Vaia in October 2018 destroyed the road through the gorge. You can gain access from Malga Ciapela  but this is neither legal nor without danger.

The Sottoguda gorge is easily accessible. From Belluno drive up the Cordevole valley past Agordo, Alleghe and Caprile and continue as for Passo Fedaia. Before reaching Malga Ciapela turn off the main road and enter into Sottoguda. Drive through this village to where the road ends at the beginning of the gorge. Continue on foot to arrive swiftly at the base of the first waterfalls.

45m, 2 pitches. Beneath the road bridge you will find the famous Spada nella Roccia. This twin route runs paralell and to the left of the huge column of ice up an obvious corner with sections of hard drytooling and climbing up to M7+. At the end of the route, climb right to the belay of Spada on a ledge.

Abseil of bolts.

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Route of Interest
Night event

Grade: WI-5 ***
(Val di Fassa Ice)

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