Rockfax Description
II 450m. This line is the best option when there isn't much ice about because the crux doesn't need ice like the key pitches on its neighbours.
1) Follow the snow slope easily for 200m to reach the foot of the icy groove.
2) Climb a 55m pitch on thin ice up the groove to reach a belay on the right.
3) Carry on up for 4m and then move delicately out left to avoid the blocky overhang above. A thin, technical section up an open groove leads to a belay on a snow ridge.
4) Head diagonally up and right across moderate mixed ground to reach the foot of a 20m chimney.
5) 5c. Climb the chimney (5c, mid to large cams useful) and the snow slope above to a peg belay.
6) Follow a short ramp rightwards and a 15m gully above before cutting back left to belay.
7) Continue up moderate mixed ground to reach the ridge. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
TD- II 4+ 5c M5
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Grade: TD ***
(Envers des Aiguilles)