Described as HVS with 1pt. aid in the last guidebook, this perplexingly ignored route goes free at a heady E1. Excitement builds progressively on the upper wall, reaching a crescendo as the overhang is passed. The original start is up Nexus, but it is more enjoyable if started up Plexus. From whichever approach, climb to an old bent peg, then up the steep wall above using ledges. Trend slightly rightwards, then make a layaway move to gain the square-cut gap in the RH end of the roof (blade peg and small cams). Pull over (either directly, with a long reach, or by moving right and back left) and finish leftwards on big holds in an airy position.
Variation finish, giving a potential 2** HVS 5a/b: Step left on the approach to the overhang, climb up and pull straight over the middle of the roof, finish direct. FA 2014.
Pat Littlejohn, Steve Dawson 08/Oct/1966