|27m. Described as HVS with 1pt. aid in the last guidebook, this perplexingly ignored route goes free at a heady E1. The original start is up Nexus, but it is more enjoyable if started up Plexus. From whichever approach, climb to an old bent peg, then up the steep wall above using ledges. Trend slightly rightwards to gain the square-cut gap in the RH end of the roof, then pull over and finish leftwards in an airy position.
Variation finish, giving a potential 2** HVS 5a/b: Step left on the approach to the overhang, climb up and pull straight over the middle of the roof, finish direct. FA 2014. |
Pat Littlejohn, Steve Dawson 08/Oct/1966