UKC

Restricted Access

Ownership of the combe is divided between Avon Wildlife Trust (who own the eastern section) and the charitable trust Groundworks South (who own the western section where the majority of the crags are located). The Landowner does not allow climbing on the crags. If climbers do decide to visit and are asked to leave by Groundworks staff, they should do so politely and as quickly as is safely possible.

Be aware that there are frequently loose blocks at the top of the smaller buttresses - a cautious approach is advised. As with any crag, climbing here is an activity with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens are nesting on Eagle Rock - the buttress should be avoided until the signs are removed.

8m. Basically a boulder problem, perhaps best approached as a solo but beware of the poor, sloping landing! Can be led, although you still have to commit fully to the initial moves. The route takes the slim wall on the left side of The Obelisk, between a chimney on the left and a rounded arete on the right (Nobalicks and Obelisk Crack are just to the right round the other side of the arete). Using a layaway on the right edge of the chimney (no bridging across the chimney itself) and a low undercut on the right, get in balance on the wall and dyno for positive holds up right (possible wires/small cam). A couple more steep pulls lead to an easier finish.

B Mullan 11/Feb/2011.

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Route of Interest
Medieval rocket cat

Grade: E3 5b ***
(Buzzard Quarry)

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