Right Major* IV 6
320m, 6 pitches. Start about a third of the way along the approach ramp to NE Buttress, an in-situ sling 5m up marks the start.
1. 50m Go up to the sling, traverse left along a narrow ledge then up an open gully to its end. Traverse up and right to a shelf under a steep wall to belay below a short groove, beware of rope drag.
2. 50m Go up groove then trend up and right across snow slopes to belay at the left end of a large terrace under a deep groove.
3. 60m Follow groove up left then back right until underneath a large steep wall on the left, belay below a short rock barrier.
4. 40m Craftily surmount the rock step with difficulty (crux) and gain a steep ramp up and right to an improbable traverse along a ledge below the steep wall. Block belay down and right of a short icy corner on the top pitch of The Lime Green Gaiter.
5. 60m Climb corner and easier snow then over an icy bulge to belay on a rock rib in the middle of open snow slopes.
6. 60m Go up and left on easy snow to join Route Major at the intersection with Frost Bite.

E Lyons, E Olivarius 29/Jan/2011
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This climb is in 1 logbook, and on no wishlists.

Went to climb Route Major but missed the start in the mist and ended up doing this weird and wonderful alternative start. Great conditions away from the crowds, finished top ice bulge with the headtorches on. All the stars out with more headtorches at Tower Gap, an unforgettable day.
Captain Solo - AltLd - 29/Jan/11 with Ewan

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