UKC

170m, 5 pitches. Start from the lift station at Piani Pezze, walk up the ski runs towards Torre Coldai, the obvious and closest tower. After a few hundred metres you will reach a junction in the ski run. Here you can either continue directly up the bed of a stream or turn left and continue up the ski runs, increasingly steeply until you can go right through low scrub. The slope above the junction is long, maybe 300m of ascent on either loose rubble or snow. Eventually you climb into a deep corner where you will start to see both Paperoga and Hypercoldai.

Paperoga is the first cascade. Low down there is an entry pitch which can be taken a number of ways, or which can be circumnavigated by climbing higher up the gully and traversing left. The main cascade can be taken anywhere across it's width, possibly slightly steeper the further right you go. After a 50m WI3+ pitch you reach a shallow gully. Climb to a shallow cave (there is a rock belay, three old pegs and tat), then continue for 40m past a narrowing to a rock belay on the right wall of the gully. Continue up easy ice to a further rock belay after 25-30m, pegs and tat low down on the right, possibly behind an ice stalactite. Ther are futher pitches above. Abseil the route from belays and abalakovs. Belays are in a mixed state of deteriation, take tat and possibly some knifeblades.

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