150m, 4 pitches.
Approach from either Piani Pezze on foot, or from Col dei Baldi on ski. Climb the long steep gully to reach the huge corner system high on Torre Coldai. There are two ice falls, Hypercoldai is on the right.
1) WI4, 35m Climb a surprisingly steep wide section of ice in a gully to a cave on the right where you will find a three peg belay.
2) WI4, 50m Traverse diagonally left to climb around a curtain of ice to a sloping ledge. Now either climb directy with difficulty or much more easily up to the left. On the right bank of the gully there are two rock belays, the second is better than the first as the pegs appear quite rotten on the first.
3) 60m climb the gully on snow to a corner. There is a thread high up above the niche before the ice steepens again, but the slings are old - an abalokov is probably a better option.
4) WI3+, 60m climb ice in a series of steeps to a cave where you would expect a belay. Step left on thin ice and rock to reach a niche. Descend on abalokov threads.
1) WI4, 35m Climb a surprisingly steep wide section of ice in a gully to a cave on the right where you will find a three peg belay.
2) WI4, 50m Traverse diagonally left to climb around a curtain of ice to a sloping ledge. Now either climb directy with difficulty or much more easily up to the left. On the right bank of the gully there are two rock belays, the second is better than the first as the pegs appear quite rotten on the first.
3) 60m climb the gully on snow to a corner. There is a thread high up above the niche before the ice steepens again, but the slings are old - an abalokov is probably a better option.
4) WI3+, 60m climb ice in a series of steeps to a cave where you would expect a belay. Step left on thin ice and rock to reach a niche. Descend on abalokov threads.
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Route of Interest
Canalone Oppel
Grade: WI-4 ***
(Antelao Group)