Catriona VIII 8
[Catriona Pitch 1, 2 kb]65m, 3 pitches. Climbs the short but striking arete to the Left of Cornucopia. A superb second pitch. Protection is excellent once the crack at 1/3 height is reached. Start as for Cornucopia. 1. 10m Climb easy angled snow and mixed ground leading to a short groove formed by the left side of the slabs beneath Cornucopia. Belay beneath the arete. 2. 30m Begin by climbing the left side of the arete past a ledge and an obvious flake. From a standing position atop the flake, swing round onto the right side of the arete. Move up a small corner then make commiting moves to get stood on a sloping ledge. From the ledge, climb a steep crack a little to the right of the arete until level with a small corner that cuts into the upper third of the arete. A tenuous step left leads to a good rest at the base of the corner. Climb the steep corner to reach a sloping terrace. Continue to a belay beneath a corner at the right hand side of the wall taken by pitch 2 of The Secret. 3. 25m Climb the steep turfy corner and then easier angled ground leading to a short snow slope and the cornice.
Pete Davies, Tim Marsh 21/Nov/2010

Photo: Catriona Pitch 1 © petesdavies
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