350m, 10 pitches.
3a, 4b, 4b, 4a, 4b, 4a, 4a, 6a, 5b, 5a.
Recent rockfall (April 2017) has struck the bottom of this route. It's OK to climb but take care as there may be some debris.
Sparsely bolted so beware of tricky routefinding. I highly recommend this topo of Mosoraški instead of *any* guidebook: http://www.mdclimb.com/Topos/Mosora%C5%A1ki_topo_v1.1.pdf
Recent rockfall (April 2017) has struck the bottom of this route. It's OK to climb but take care as there may be some debris.
Sparsely bolted so beware of tricky routefinding. I highly recommend this topo of Mosoraški instead of *any* guidebook: http://www.mdclimb.com/Topos/Mosora%C5%A1ki_topo_v1.1.pdf
B. Kambic, B. Kulic 1957.
Ticklists
Ryan's Multipitch Climbs (Europe) , Big Pitches 4 Buff Boyz , Paklenica 2024
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hal Mungbean | 20 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Defo a Trad route until p6, a few nuts across sizes and a 2 slings great comfort for first 5 pitches - lots of loose rock on key holds and no-fall zones between v spaced bolts. You can make it as bold as you like, always good nut and chock placements. Cam placements not as good in the flared and hollowed limestone. Single 60m rope fine with alpine draws and slings to beat the drag. Disagree the ‘shiny bolts’ and belays are always obvious - a few on P1-4 well hidden, easy to go off route, we used the linked topo which is mostly accurate but doesn’t show the terrain well- the guide better for this. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Defo a Trad route until p6, a few nuts across sizes and a 2 slings great comfort for first 5 pitches - lots of loose rock on key holds and no-fall zones between v spaced bolts. You can make it as bold as you like, always good nut and chock placements. Cam placements not as good in the flared and hollowed limestone. Single 60m rope fine with alpine draws and slings to beat the drag. Disagree the ‘shiny bolts’ and belays are always obvious - a few on P1-4 well hidden, easy to go off route, we used the linked topo which is mostly accurate but doesn’t show the terrain well- the guide better for this. |
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| marcusdanger | 24 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Made good use of 3 small/medium cams (DMM Dragon blue, purple and red) plus 2 or 3 aramid slings at 60cm/120cm. Used double 60m ropes which was good thing to do. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Great route. Made good use of 3 small/medium cams (DMM Dragon blue, purple and red) plus 2 or 3 aramid slings at 60cm/120cm. Used double 60m ropes which was good thing to do. |
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| Jack Geldard | 25 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: First half of route follows quite broken ‘traditional ground’. Very few bolts means exact route finding can be confusing but essentially it’s possible to climb anywhere, just keep aiming for the old cemented ring belays. After pitch 4 it becomes easier to follow and better climbing. There are just enough bolts to protect (plenty on the crux), but a light trad rack of say 6 wires and 3 mid size cams would be helpful for those pushing their grade. We didn’t take any which was fine but I would have placed 1 or 2 cams if we had taken them. 3.5 hours up. 50m rope easily long enough. Walk off very well marked. The linked topo was fine (thanks for a free topo!) and also the guidebook is fine. Neither are perfectly accurate but both are adequate! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: First half of route follows quite broken ‘traditional ground’. Very few bolts means exact route finding can be confusing but essentially it’s possible to climb anywhere, just keep aiming for the old cemented ring belays. After pitch 4 it becomes easier to follow and better climbing. There are just enough bolts to protect (plenty on the crux), but a light trad rack of say 6 wires and 3 mid size cams would be helpful for those pushing their grade. We didn’t take any which was fine but I would have placed 1 or 2 cams if we had taken them. 3.5 hours up. 50m rope easily long enough. Walk off very well marked. The linked topo was fine (thanks for a free topo!) and also the guidebook is fine. Neither are perfectly accurate but both are adequate! |
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| Krustythebrown | 17 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant fun, even the polished crux. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant fun, even the polished crux. |
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| Marko Duksi | 20 Nov, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Runout on all but the crux pitch so it's very easy to stray off route. I have retrieved lots of gear from parties bivouacking and then bailing. You would do much better to use the topo provided (http://www.mdclimb.com/Topos/Mosora%C5%A1ki_topo_v1.1.pdf) instead of a guidebook. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Runout on all but the crux pitch so it's very easy to stray off route. I have retrieved lots of gear from parties bivouacking and then bailing. You would do much better to use the topo provided (http://www.mdclimb.com/Topos/Mosora%C5%A1ki_topo_v1.1.pdf) instead of a guidebook. |
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| krystian.kostecki | 10 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crux is very polished and thus may felt hard, the rest is rather nice. Lower pitches require a little bit of orientation and trad rack to backup. Be aware of the descent because at night you may be lost, especially on the right (front-facing) variant - at some point (when you get to the trees level) you will need to search for cairns that lead you to the other side of the right-hand (looking down) pillar/ridge. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The crux is very polished and thus may felt hard, the rest is rather nice. Lower pitches require a little bit of orientation and trad rack to backup. Be aware of the descent because at night you may be lost, especially on the right (front-facing) variant - at some point (when you get to the trees level) you will need to search for cairns that lead you to the other side of the right-hand (looking down) pillar/ridge. |
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