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|Avon > Avon Gorge (Main Area) >|
|Dark Motive|| HVS 5a|
|Start as for Dexter and move halfway along the muddy ledge to were the first pitch finishes. Tackle the bulges above directly with a hard mantelshelf using small side pull crack (not part of dexter)to reach a small tree (thread)Once here climb a long run out section up and leftwards diagonally until reaching a polished undercut crack, follow this to tree belay on lunchtime ledge.
***The grade of this route may not have been verified|
Jack Bradbrook & Rob Stanfield 12/Mar/2011
Photo: whack out the camera. © Stanners
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This climb is in 4 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
Possible 2nd ascent? Well protected crux, but a tenuous move to gain the sapling. Sustained slab to the break, with sparse gear. Felt solid for the grade, one star for overall quality.
stafford101 - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/13 with George Frisby
George Frisby - 2nd dog - 15/Aug/13 with Chris
Good route surprised this hasn't been done already, the bulge is a fairly obvious challenge.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Rob Stanfield
awesome unintended new route jack! nice one.
Stanners - 2nd O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Jack Bradbrook