UKC

100m, 3 pitches. A good turfy mixed climb, taking the prominent groove just right of the mummy shaped tower. A typically 'testing' Lochnagar mixed number.

1. 40m Climb easy lower ground and step right into the foot of the groove. Climb this with increasing difficulty to a small triangular niche (old peg in here). Pull over the roof (crux)- then continue more easily to a recess and large block belay.
2. 35m Continue in the same line up a narrow groove and climb to the top of a small hanging snowfield. Exit via the wall on the right to gain the left-rising terrace.
3. 25m Move left into the well defined chimney (excellent climbing) and climb this to the top.

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High VI
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High IV
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High 7
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hanging Garden Route (Left Fork)

Grade: V 4 ***
(Creag an Dubh-loch)

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