Transept Route** V 6
[Turning the crux bulge P1, 2 kb]100m, 3 pitches. A good turfy mixed climb, taking the prominent groove just right of the mummy shaped tower. A typically 'testing' Lochnagar mixed number.

1. 40m Climb easy lower ground and step right into the foot of the groove. Climb this with increasing difficulty to a small triangular niche (old peg in here). Pull over the roof (crux)- then continue more easily to a recess and large block belay.
2. 35m Continue in the same line up a narrow groove and climb to the top of a small hanging snowfield. Exit via the wall on the right to gain the left-rising terrace.
3. 25m Move left into the well defined chimney (excellent climbing) and climb this to the top.

Photo: Turning the crux bulge P1 © innes
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This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

peter.herd - AltLd - 04/Jan/15 with Jason C, Adrian C

Buried under lots of snow. Struggled to find any good gear on P1: peg and bulldog both poor. Top 2 pitches take good rock gear.
innes - AltLd - 09/Feb/13 with Ralph, Max

Great route, but would be nice if there was some more turf in the pitch is lovely
Heike - AltLd - 05/Feb/12 with Jeremy

Ace turfy route on a wild day - did 2nd pitch of Spellbound up the arete as the groove was not well iced, good hooks and gear further up. A great day out, top chimney is thrutchy!
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/12 with Geoff

First proper wintarr route. Fell off the crux. Who thought it was a good idea to climb with leashes? A crackin route!
whistler - 2nd dog - 17/Dec/11 with Graham

Winter climbing at it's grimmest. Ice particles being driven up into your face whenever you look down. Ugh. Good effort from Pete!
gforce - Lead - 17/Dec/11 with Whistler

Pulling over an overhang with a packed ruckie aint easy! Did it in two pitches so wasny given a lead! Chimney pitch up top is excellent.
Lamb - 2nd RP - 19/Mar/11 with Steve Dale, Stephen

Stephen18 - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11

Did not finish as Russ took a huge fall off the crux.
Smelly Fox - AltLd dnf - Feb/05 with Russell Birkett

Total votes cast 12
hard VI0 of 4
VI0 of 4
easy VI1 of 4
hard V2 of 4
V1 of 4
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easy IV0 of 4
hard 70 of 4
70 of 4
easy 70 of 4
hard 62 of 4
62 of 4
easy 60 of 4
hard 50 of 4
50 of 4
easy 50 of 4
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1 Star1 of 4
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