|540m, 13 pitches. |
This classic route was first climbed in 1969 when Messner, devoid of climbing partners on that particular day, decided to go ahead anyway and soloed the route. It is most often climbed as the continuation to the Vinatzer-Castiglioni route on the lower half of the face and, because of the nature of the rock, is less prone to ice and snow at either end of the season. There is plenty of fixed gear but is nonetheless a committing climb which should not be underestimated.
Begin from the large halfway ledge below a roof, about 50m right of the exit from the Vinatzer route pitch 16.
1) V+, 45m. Climb the overhang on its left side, leaving a niche on the right. Move left over much easier ground to a good stance.
2) III, 40m. Move a few metres right then continue easily left, passing through a shallow corner to a comfortable belay.
3) IV+, 50m. Climb a slab, moving right towards a large niche, then climb a gully to the left of this to a stance below a narrower gully.
4) IV+, 50m. Climb the short gully to a roof on the left, then move diagonally right to a small niche. Traverse back left before climbing a few metres direct to reach a stance.
5) VI-, 35m. Move left across a slab then climb this direct with technical climbing on water grooves and pockets.
6) IV, 25m. Follow a vague gully right, passing over a niche, to reach another slab.
7) IV+, 40m. Climb the slab of smooth grey rock direct.
8) IV+, 25m. Follow the successive slab slightly left.
9) IV, 40m. Climb right from the belay, climbing a slab to the right of a narrow gully.
10) VI+, 35m. Continue direct on pockets, then trend right following a steep but well-pegged crack up a steep yellow wall.
11) V, 45m. Climb a gully then continue in the crack above.
12) IV+, 100m. Follow the crack left then direct, passing an overhang on its left then follow the ridge left over easier ground to the summit.
Descent - From the summit of Punta Rocca, descend a short rocky section on the northeast side to reach the snowy plateau of the glacier. Follow the snow ridge east to reach the Punta Rocca cable car station. Either take the cable car back to Malga Ciapela, or alternatively descend the ski piste northeast (be aware of possible crevasses on the glacier, particularly later in the season), keeping right to reach a service track. Follow this back to Passo Fedaia. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
This is the usual finish to the Vinatzer route, fantastic.
This climb is in 5 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Excellent route, really varied. Went a little off route before the top crux and had to do a diagonal abseil to get back to the line. The last VI+ pitch (pitch twenty-something overall) was quite exciting when knackered!
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/12 with Ally F
So, Vinatzer completed. Pulled over the starting overhang and commenced on a number of pitches of slab wandering. I'd say about 80% of the time we weren't sure if we were on route, or where the route should be, or where we were. Upwards we go!
Crux 1 was uniquely positioned. Intimidating, technical, balancey but not strenuous wall climbing on pockets, never quite sure if on route or not, never quite sure where the next piece of gear or belay would be, 500m of air below. Mind. Blowing. Neil describes the rest >>
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/12 with Neil Adams
alpinist63 - 29/Jul/09
Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/07
dan gibson - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with eddie church