150m. The gully that splits the RH and LH buttresses. Interesting ice pitch at the start, then straightforward to the top. If the interest fades, a chimney on the left offers a few good moves at II/III and a link to the next route, above the "window" pitch. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Note: this is not the broad open gully right of the main crag, but the narrower gully splitting the main crag.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Pretty thin and cruddy.
Richard Morrison, Pete Walker
Spring conditions, solo was fine. Tricky step at the beginning, on thin melty ice. Further up a short steeper ice section, and firm neve to top.
Richard Morrison, Jo Paulger
Good neve, some ice.
In good condition, neve and plenty of ice..
Nice Ice Pitch at start to get into gully
Pitched first section. Moved together on the rest. In decent Nick.
done at night took 45min , lead good ice pitch at base on short 30m rope. then soloed the rest was a pretty boring slope with an ice step or 2 so racing each other up the neve slope to add interest , good hard neve though... good laugh for an easy night ascent 3 hours from car to car.
2nd the first ice pitch, then moved together for the remainder of the easy slope above.
Good ice but massive queue
First winter route!
Lead 1st and 3rd pitches
|Ed carrigan||31/Jan||Solo O/S|
Good conditions, small pitch at start, straightforward snow to top.
A little soft at start then good condition after that
Warm down from Two Grooves. Very nice romping territory with a couple of interesting steps. Beautiful day
Well banked out, when led, slightly tricky first step, easy romping to the top afterwards
A warm for the day to get the legs going. Nice easy conditions
Brown cove was like Piccadilly Circus today. There must of been 40 climbers on it while I was there. There was a lot of powder. Towards the top of the route the wind was horrendous. I have not experienced the like before. Great day out.
Dave Richards, PMC
Busier than the M6
Kev, The Defecator
Good ice at base, plenty of death ropers up there
OK conds - cute little ice section formed at start, crusty scoured at exit, soft for most middle.
Still very confused, which gully is which?! so where is left branch?
|Dave Richards||18/Jan||Solo O/S||
Tom Rodgers, sjbrook
great initial section if the ice is in good condition
Nice line lower down. Poor snow conditions but plenty of it to plod up.
Poor condition very soft snow
Completely banked out today, only water near the surface to indicate the whereabouts of the higher "pitch".
Stephen Hall, Rachel Woodward, Dorine Tinnion
Fully banked out - Grade I
Was able to run up the gully in fell running shoes thanks to the superb footsteps left by previous ascentionists. Much fun.
night time ascent with goods snow cover
A little claggy to start, but the weather improved by the time we got to the top. An early start from Linton- on- Ouse left home at 0630. Finished off by walking to Helvellyn Lower Man and Helvellyn. Rescued a walker who was stranded on a steep snow slope on the way back down to the Swirls car park.
|Dave Richards||06/Apr/13||AltLd O/S||
Led first ice pitch (felt like II) then moved together with Donald out front.
|Donald Kelly||06/Apr/13||AltLd O/S||
Dave R PMC
|Steve Kempley||02/Mar/13||Lead O/S||
Nice little ice pitch at start, good neve above, great day out
|Graeme Hammond||24/Feb/13||Solo O/S|
|Martin Haworth||24/Feb/13||Solo rpt|
Ian Hope, John Haxon
|Tom the tall||?/Feb/13||Lead|
First winter climb. Lots of spin drift and strong winds when topping out.
Interesting entry pitch. Did the route in poor conditions with a lot of soft powder and brittle ice. As a result it was difficult to get purchase for crampons and axes in places, making some moves more like Grade II. Wasn't helped by one of my axes breaking low down on the route either. If it was banked out and in full winter there would be nothing more than Grade I above the entry pitch.
|Harry Shuell||24/Jan/13||Solo O/S||
Sketchy last pitch, so rope was used over bad ice pitch high up
lean - II at least. Good ice in places.
|team fat belly||20/Jan/13||-||
Thin on the start pitch with a few steeper steps higher up.
good day out, lean conditions so some points almost grade III
Lean conditions, definitely grade II.
Two small ice steps and good neve....a little lean at the top but all turf well frozen
Nat Norris, Ali Newman
|Nat norris||12/Dec/12||2nd O/S||
good, fun climb
First ever winter climb. Really enjoyed it. Good bit at the start
Did a central Gully perhaps not the one, simple snow plod but on good snow.
|waiting for snow||08/Dec/12||Lead O/S||
Mix of powder snow and some nicely consolidated snow. It started drizzling as we finished the day.
First winter route!
|Charlie Zephyr Booth||05/Dec/12||Solo||
lean but still good, broke out right after first interesting bit and climbed the buttress, turf frozen but snow not yet neve!
Early season lean conditions at base
A straightforward gully with banked out snow and good warthog placements! Occasional bits of steeper ice.
Climbed with Pete and Mark and Alan following. Led very nice first ice pitch.
Mark, Alan, Pete Middleton
Great nick. Good ice in 2 parts.
|paul horabin||20/Dec/11||Lead O/S||
|Two Cams Tom||11/Dec/11||Solo|
|John Holden||10/Dec/11||Lead O/S||
The first winter route of the season after a great session at Kendal wall yesterday. Joined by Martin, Charlie, Martin,and Katy fron Aus and Annalise from SA, the first snow climb for both AND the first ever sight of snow for Anna'. A great day out.
Thin and a little scary !
First winter climb and really enjoyed it! Conditions weren't tip top though, as not as much snow as usual! Good ice sections, done with just a walking axe!
|Martin Haworth||20/Dec/10||Solo rpt|
|Andrew Sloan||20/Dec/10||Solo O/S||
I wasn't that happy soloing this, the inital ice step and the rock step half way up both felt like grade III, felt I was just 1 ice axe 'popping' from a broken leg.
Couple of nice ice pitches..Grade II
|gordon henderson||18/Dec/10||Lead O/S||
|Tom Keaveny||11/Dec/10||Solo O/S|
first winter climb!
|Matt Bill Platypus||04/Dec/10||2nd O/S||
First ever 'proper' winter route. Soloed most of it.
great loads of ice and no where near as much snow in it from february
nice first lakes winter route of the season
Pete, Davina, Matt
|Martin Haworth||27/Nov/10||Lead rpt|
done it a couple of times getting up into the groove is the only tricky bit...
8ft of nearly vertical ice to get in, then easy snow
snow in excellent condition, no problems
used as descent
|Ken Taylor||13/Feb/10||Lead O/S||
Started up the main gully then headed left up the II/III variant (good pitch). Traversed long way left over rock slabs covered by soft snow before heading up through steep corner on forzen turf before excaping into gully on left. Worth a III overall
By headtorch and with walking axe. Where was the moon?!
Small icy step early on and easy fun climbing to the top.
|Somerset swede basher||01/Jan/10||Solo O/S|
|Jonny M||01/Jan/10||Solo O/S||
|shaun walby||01/Jan/10||AltLd O/S||
First winter acsent, small ice section to start otherwise easy but had cold and felt rough
|The Mountain Goat||30/Dec/09||Solo O/S|
|Andy S||23/Dec/09||AltLd O/S||
Soloed in excellent winter nick. Nice little ice pitch at the start.
|joe king||07/Feb/09||Lead O/S||
|Rosey Posey||07/Feb/09||2nd O/S||
ann and foggy
John and Foggy
|Mark A Humphries||03/Feb/09||Solo O/S|
First lakes winter route - much better than expected. The wind was so strong you couldn't get over the lip of the descent gully!
Perect conditions, hard packed snow and some ice.
Gavs first route in winter, roped for safety .Turf not frozen but snow good. Hard battle getting over from helvellyn YHA in the winds.
Very lean, no ice, turf not frozen. Easy in these conditions.
|craig h||?/Feb/91||Solo O/S|