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Viking Buttress* IV

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Viking Buttress - Left-hand Finish >>
[viking Buttress. p3, 2 kb]80m, 2 pitches. An excellent mixed route often in condition. 1) 3, 40m. Start at the lowest rocks and climb the left edge of the buttress passing a short steep wall to a belay on a slab below a step wall. 2) 5, 40m. Climb a short crack above the belay and step right to a small bay. Up a bulge and traverse left to below a step wall. A technical move gains a tiny ledge on the edge and a tricky move right enables the final shallow groove to be reached. © ROCKFAX
FA. W. Freeland, A. James 1986

Photo: viking Buttress. p3 © Ryan Wilson
View all 7 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 83 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Martin Rowe - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/13 with aaren

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Mar/13

An excellent day. Ash and Tom on seperate rope.
petegunn - Lead - 17/Mar/13 with Ash, Tom, Davina

Two Cams Tom - 17/Mar/13 with Ash, Davina, petegunn

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Feb/13

Been wanting to this for ages and finally done it! Felt the main pitch was 4/5 and has really good moves.
joe.91 - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/13 with Olli Crudge, Moritz

Almost clean but slid off the top of the final pitch. Cool route.
Olli-C - 2nd - 12/Feb/13 with Joe Dobson, Moritz

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Feb/13

Knackered from day before in N. Wales! Promised Ade I would do a day out. Glad I did - a cracking little route.
NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 20/Jan/13 with Adrian Pedley

Crux pitch is excellent though its pretty tough for the grade
petegunn - Lead - 17/Jan/13 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Jan/13

ashpreston - 2013

Pete Graham - Lead - 12/Dec/12 with Hazel

Both pitches!
ollyroberts - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/12 with Piers Newton

Led pitch 1 and 3. Rob led the second pitch but went straight up towards the steep corner rather than traversing right. We ended up moving out left trying to torque in the wide crack with very little for feet. Bloody awkward and definitely harder than grade IV! Rob led it smoothly, I fell off! Conditions were decent. Turf very well frozen, snow well frozen and cracks generally free of ice. Pitch 3 was ok for grade IV but the turf is very thin and would be impossible in unfrozen conditions.
Will Smith - AltLd - 10/Dec/12 with Rob

P1 + P3 will (including untying one rope!) I did P2 but went straight up (as for Loki i think) then stepped left to use the obvious triangular flake which was clean with no usabale ice (see pics) as the Loki corner above was very thin. Great gear (massive hex) and safe but i thought technically v. hard (maybe IV 5/6 but need someone to confirm) and fun
lithos - AltLd - 10/Dec/12 with will smith

piersnewton - 2nd O/S - 10/Dec/12 with Olly Roberts

Goose4 - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Alex Pokhilko, Stuart Paton

Alpine feel. Near perfect conditions. The ice became brittle in the rain though.
Pohil - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Stuart Paton, Angus McKendrick

foostu4 - 2nd - 08/Dec/12 with Alex Pokhilko, Gus McKendrick

Seymore Butt - Dec/12

kelliroberts3 - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/12 with Peter Rigby

Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/12 with Kelli Roberts

cox - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/12 with james

JYates - AltLd - 07/Feb/12 with Paul Coxon

tjmillen - Lead - 18/Dec/11 with vicky, simon hall

a13x - Lead O/S - 18/Dec/11 with Katy Boreham

indigostarlight - 2nd - 18/Dec/11 with Alex Peace

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/10

Pitches 1 and 3. The top groove was quite precarious.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/10 with Andy

Led pitch 2, a couple of hard moves. The final groove was desperate...well led Martin!An absolutely beautiful day.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/10

Led 2nd pitch
bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/10 with nick mattia, Bart

First winter climb. Seconded first 2 pitches clean. Fell once on 3rd hard pitch (left hand variant), then manned up and got the job done.
nickmattia - 2nd O/S - 19/Dec/10 with bartshaw, bullwinkle

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/10

Jaime Mitchell - 2nd O/S - 19/Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Dec/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 03/Dec/10

Abbed off in the dark.
AMarchant - AltLd dnf - 03/Dec/10 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Nov/10

tk1991 - 2nd O/S - 29/Nov/10

Jack Loftus - AltLd O/S - 29/Nov/10 with Tom K, Pete Hill

Nice route, only discovered the turf in the top groove is not quite frozen enough yet as I climbed it, despite recommendations from other parties. Give it a couple more days folks
greenroom - AltLd O/S - 28/Nov/10 with Tom Swannick

twoplates - AltLd O/S - 28/Nov/10 with frith wood

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Nov/10

pitch 1 only, then finished up thor's corner.
Andrew Wilson - AltLd rpt - 28/Nov/10 with Tony Womersley

Andrew1 - Lead - 28/Nov/10 with Chris Fisher

Peter Holder - AltLd - 26/Nov/10 with Chris kay, lewis fraser

Hidden - Lead - 25/Nov/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/10

jason - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/10 with manmike

Andrew Wilson - 2nd O/S - 14/Feb/10 with Mark Fyles

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Feb/10

nakedave - AltLd - 30/Jan/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 25/Jan/10

Dave Almond - Lead - 14/Jan/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Pete Graham - 2nd - Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Dec/08

With Matt Forshaw
MartF - AltLd O/S - Dec/08

great route, did in 3 pitches, (final groove as a separate pitch) last pitch felt technical and scary, as i couldnt reach the gear and turf was sparse.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 30/Nov/08 with Tom Martin

tommytuffa - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/08 with luketheape

Hidden - Lead - 23/Mar/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/08

Awesome. Climbed v early. Solid turf where sufficiently exposed, good neve on ledges even nice little ice filled groves to climb up. white rimedd up rock.
joe larner - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/08 with Dad

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/08 with Jim Keeley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jan/08

John Kettle - AltLd - 23/Jan/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/06

Ann S - 2nd - Mar/06 with midweekjolly

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with Zac Poulton

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/06

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/06

John Kettle - AltLd - 2006

nakedave - Solo - 2006

ashpreston - 2004

Hidden - 2002

Not totally sure of the date, might have even been November. Heavy early conditions anyway.
TobyA - Lead O/S - Dec/99 with Chris, Stuart Adams

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, evanofthefell, RM199, dannyW

Voting
Total votes cast 71
hard V0 of 38
V0 of 38
easy V0 of 38
hard IV15 of 38
IV21 of 38
easy IV2 of 38
hard III0 of 38
III0 of 38
easy III0 of 38
3 Stars3 of 33
2 Stars28 of 33
1 Star2 of 33
0 Stars0 of 33
Bag of .....0 of 33
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 83 (1.2%)
Lead19 of 83 (22.9%)
Followed14 of 83 (16.9%)
Alt Leads42 of 83 (50.6%)
Unknown7 of 83 (8.4%)

'Climbed'36 of 83 (43.4%)
clean O/S42 of 83 (50.6%)
clean rpt1 of 83 (1.2%)
dogged1 of 83 (1.2%)
dnf3 of 83 (3.6%)